Some Observations: A Baker's Dozen

I have now been in Florence for a week, and here are some of my observations and thoughts about everyday life in this magnificent city:

1. Florentines will go out of their way to offer assistance and to be kind. Case in point—on Saturday, as I was putting on my coat, a wool toggle coat, I noticed that one of the leather loops that holds the toggles had become detached. I decided to go to a leather shop, which are located in every block (Florence is known for its leather products), to see if the owner could refer someone who could repair my coat. When I asked the gentleman, he raised his finger, telling me to wait un minuto (one minute). He returned with a sewing kit, asked for my coat, and went immediately to work repairing it; and he did a beautiful job. When I asked how much I owed him, he almost scoffed at the question, saying in heavily accented English, “No charge. I am happy to help.”

2. Maybe I’m hanging out in the right neighborhoods, but it’s extremely rare to see a homeless person on the street. (Gavin Newsom, are you listening?) I have seen some gypsies, but they seem quite passive. The streets in my neighborhood are also spotless. A street cleaner comes by several times a day to sweep the streets, and trash is picked up multiple times a day (again, Gavin, are you listening?).

3. I still haven’t figured out who has the right of way on the impossibly narrow sidewalks in Florence.

4. One of the best things about Florence? No chains. I’ve walked everywhere, and I have yet to see a Starbucks, a McDonald’s, a Gap, or any of the other chains that are ubiquitous throughout the United States.

5. In lieu of chain stores in Florence are specialty stores, and I mean specialty. I have seen entire stores devoted to the following: fish, spices, wine, bread, chocolate, stationery, cheese, fruit and vegetables (two separate shops), cheese, newspapers, batteries (given my electrical challenges, I’ve been three times to the one in my neighborhood so far), and chewing gum, yes, chewing gum. This makes shopping an adventure!

6. I stop by the same café every morning, where I get a delicious pastry and the most wonderful cappuccino I’ve ever had for 2.10 Euro total. How will I ever be able to go back to Starbucks again?

7. Whenever you dine out and for any meal, you won’t get your check until you specifically ask for it. This is so refreshing after going to some restaurants in the U.S. where your check arrives before you’re halfway though your meal. In Italy they believe that meals should be relaxing, which is exactly how it should be.

8. Those in the know have said that you have to go to Napoli (Naples) to get a decent pizza. With enough searching, though, you can find one in Florence. I did just that during my first week, and just a block from my apartment. (Chip will be very happy about this!) The place is called Taverna Divina Commedia, an appropriate name given that it's around the corner from the Casa di Dante.

9. I’ve been told that it’s considered gauche to ask at a restaurant to take your leftover food home with you, but I’ve learned that it’s all in the way you ask. Last night the aforementioned pizza was much too large to finish on my own, yet I hated to see it go to waste. This is what I said to the owner, pointing to the leftover pizza: Posso prendere a casa? È molto buona ma troppo grande per me (Is it possible to take home? It is very good but too big for me). He responded with a big smile and a Certo! (Certainly!), whisked the pizza away, and placed it in a nice box, which he held for me until I paid my bill and was ready to leave. No problemo!

10. They have an obsession in Florence with American music from the ‘70s. You already know about the bad ‘70s music that was playing in the quaint trattoria across from my apartment. Last night, at the great pizza place I discovered, they were playing Barry White. I must admit, though, that this is American music from the ‘70s I can live with!

11. If you stick with something long enough, you’ll figure it out eventually, even my Candy Aquamatic 3, which I have now mastered!

12. It’s hard to be humble when your underwear and socks are hanging on a clothesline for the world to see.

13. When you’re walking down the street in the historical centre of Florence, carrying a bag that contains a four-pack of toilet paper and a roll of paper towel, which you’ve just purchased at the local Standa supermarket, it will suddenly hit you: “I’m definitely not a tourist!”