La Famiglia Italiana

I had been walking for about three hours on Sunday, much of it uphill, and I had worked up quite an appetite. I came around a bend in the road, and up ahead I saw a ristorante, Chateau Fontana (fontana meaning “fountain”) sitting on a small rise, with expanses of parkland behind it and, best of all, a sign out front that said “Aperto per Pranzo” (“Open for Lunch”). I definitely had to stop!

The restaurant was lovely, and it was filled with Italian families enjoying their pranzo domenica (Sunday lunch). I discreetly observed them while eating my lunch, as course after course was delivered to the tables. Boisterous conversation, some of which I was actually able to understand, continued as each plate was delivered. There is no doubt that Italians love two things: eating and togetherness.

I have also been told that Italians are very giving people, often opening up their hearts, homes, and kitchens to complete strangers. Little did I know that I was about to experience this first-hand.

I was just about to ask for my check, and was even getting ready to go – putting my book back into my bag and so on. Near me was a table of six, clearly all family and clearly celebrating something special. I saw the matriarch call the cameriere (waiter) over, I caught the words “La Signora,” and I saw her point in my direction. The next thing I knew, the waiter came over to my table and said, “They would like you to join them.” I was stunned; things like this just don’t happen in the U.S. I felt a little funny, but I accepted their generous offer. The waiter pulled a chair up to the table for me, at the head no less, and I took a seat. There were handshakes and “Piacere” (nice to meet you) all around, and I soon learned that they were all there to celebrate the birthday of the woman’s (I later learned her name is Marcella) son Marcello. In addition to the two of them, Marcello’s wife, his father, his sister Margherita, and her husband were there for his special day. And now, this stranger from California.

The next thing I knew, the cake arrived, a beautiful sponge cake topped with strawberries, and the waiter put a slice down right in front of me. This was followed by glasses of champagne and then espresso. There was no question that I was to partake in everything – after all, I was like family now!

For over an hour we carried on a conversation, partially in Italian and partially in English. They were thrilled to learn that I was from San Francisco; in fact, I think I became somewhat of a novelty. None had ever been to San Francisco, but Marcello said that he learned all about San Francisco by watching The Streets of San Francisco; when he said this, others piped in with “Sì, Michael Douglas!”

I also learned that they’re hooked on quite a few American television shows, including Friends, Sex and the City, and the soap opera Santa Barbara. They said, “We have all seven seasons of Sex and the City on DVD.” (I found myself hoping that they don’t think all Americans are like the characters in these shows!) It turns out that they watch these shows not with subtitles, but dubbed in Italian. (I'd love to hear what they sound like!)

In addition to television, we talked about calcio (soccer), churches and other historical buildings in Florence, other cities in Italy (they said I “must” go to Venice; I told them that I was once mio marito (my husband) arrived), the 1966 flood, and my students, including what they were like, how old they were, where they were living, and what they will be studying in Florence. Oh, yes, and they wanted to know all about earthquakes!

While I was enjoying the birthday celebration, an Andre Bocelli from Romanza came on over the speaker system; this was the first time I have heard Bocelli since arriving in Italy, and the timing couldn't have been more perfect. (Only Chip understands how much this meant to me. Sweetheart, I wish you had been there with me.)

Finally, and sadly, it was time to go. Margherita, who runs three hotels in Florence, and I exchanged business cards and she said, “Drop by anytime, and if you ever need anything, just let me know.” And I know she really means it. There were Italian double-cheek kisses all around, and I really did feel as if I were saying goodbye to family. I guess they really are la mia famiglia nuova italiana (my new Italian family), if only for the day.

As I walked down the cobbled sidewalk, toward the Ponte Vecchio, I thought to myself, if everyone were as kind, open, and giving as this family, the world would be a much better place.