I began my Sunday morning by doing some laundry. Yes, I know this is mundane, but the chores must still get done, even in Florence! By the way, I should mention that my Candy Aquamatic 3 and I are getting along famously now!
But it was much too beautiful a day to stay inside for long. After a couple of loads, I decided to go out. My plan for the day? To take the walking tour, on my own, that the students took Friday.
I walked down to the Arno and crossed the Ponte Alle Grazie. Although a bridge has been in this location since 1237, it’s now actually a modern structure. You see, the original bridge was blown up in 1944 during World War II and was rebuilt in 1957. On the other side of the bridge is the charming San Niccolò neighborhood, filled with curved medieval streets and ancient buildings.
I stopped first at the Church of San Niccolò, which dates back to the 12th century. Of interesting note is a small plaque that reads “Il 4 Novembre 1966 l’acqua d’Arno arrivo a quest altezza” (On November 4, 1966, the water of the Arno reached this height). Although the actual height was not mentioned, it was at least 15 feet. Unbelievable! You can see why so much great art was damaged or destroyed by this terrible flood. I then entered the church, surprised to find myself alone. The interior of the church was very simple, which I liked. The pews and kneelers were made of rustic wood, and the altar was made of stone. (I also learned that Michelangelo hid in a cell beneath the church belltower during the fall of the Republic in 1530.) As I was walking down the aisle, admiring the paintings on the walls, as if on cue, organ music began to play, as if just for me. 
People started to arrive shortly after, probably for mass, so I left in search of a place for coffee. That place was Caffé Rifullo, right in the heart of San Niccolò, where I had breakfast before beginning my uphill climb. After breakfast my hike began by walking through the San Niccolò city gate, a massive stone structure that dates back to the 14th century. I then took steep stone steps up Via del Monte alle Croci to get to Piazzale Michelangelo, which is actually a huge balcony that was built in 1875, giving tourists a “scenic viewpoint” to Florence for the first time. A copy of Michelangelo’s David gallantly watches over everything. 
The views over Florence and over the countryside south of the Arno really are stunning, and I was delighted to see a wedding taking place on a terrace right below the main balcony. If you look closely at the photo, you can see the bride’s bouquet, tossed high into the air. What a background she’ll have in her wedding photos!
But it was much too beautiful a day to stay inside for long. After a couple of loads, I decided to go out. My plan for the day? To take the walking tour, on my own, that the students took Friday.
I walked down to the Arno and crossed the Ponte Alle Grazie. Although a bridge has been in this location since 1237, it’s now actually a modern structure. You see, the original bridge was blown up in 1944 during World War II and was rebuilt in 1957. On the other side of the bridge is the charming San Niccolò neighborhood, filled with curved medieval streets and ancient buildings.
I stopped first at the Church of San Niccolò, which dates back to the 12th century. Of interesting note is a small plaque that reads “Il 4 Novembre 1966 l’acqua d’Arno arrivo a quest altezza” (On November 4, 1966, the water of the Arno reached this height). Although the actual height was not mentioned, it was at least 15 feet. Unbelievable! You can see why so much great art was damaged or destroyed by this terrible flood. I then entered the church, surprised to find myself alone. The interior of the church was very simple, which I liked. The pews and kneelers were made of rustic wood, and the altar was made of stone. (I also learned that Michelangelo hid in a cell beneath the church belltower during the fall of the Republic in 1530.) As I was walking down the aisle, admiring the paintings on the walls, as if on cue, organ music began to play, as if just for me. 
People started to arrive shortly after, probably for mass, so I left in search of a place for coffee. That place was Caffé Rifullo, right in the heart of San Niccolò, where I had breakfast before beginning my uphill climb. After breakfast my hike began by walking through the San Niccolò city gate, a massive stone structure that dates back to the 14th century. I then took steep stone steps up Via del Monte alle Croci to get to Piazzale Michelangelo, which is actually a huge balcony that was built in 1875, giving tourists a “scenic viewpoint” to Florence for the first time. A copy of Michelangelo’s David gallantly watches over everything. 
The views over Florence and over the countryside south of the Arno really are stunning, and I was delighted to see a wedding taking place on a terrace right below the main balcony. If you look closely at the photo, you can see the bride’s bouquet, tossed high into the air. What a background she’ll have in her wedding photos!But I must say that, overall, I was very disappointed with the Piazzale Michelangelo, and it is a place I had been so excited to visit. It was crowded, with tourists, cars, and tour buses. Vendors were everywhere hawking their goods. I had gone in search of a peaceful place, and it was clear I wasn’t going to find it here. So I kept climbing.
And what peacefulness awaited me! I first climbed steep, grass-covered stone steps until I reached the Church of San Salvatore al Monte, which was completed in 1504. I loved the simplicity of the church facade; unfortunately, I was unable to go inside as the massive wooden doors were locked. I learned, though, that Michelangelo once referred to this church as “la bella villanella” (the comely peasant girl). I can see why.
I then continued to climb. Along the way I walked by the Parco della Rimembranza (the Park of Remembrance), which was quite moving. Tall, stately cypress trees were lined up neatly, reaching toward the heavens; and under each were small markers honoring the men and women who gave their lives during the World War I and World War II as Red Cross volunteers. What a fitting tribute.
I finally reached the top, where the Church of San Miniato al Monte graces the summit, with sweeping views of Florence and the countryside. This is an extremely important church in Florentine history. It is one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in the city; it is also one of the oldest churches in the city, dating back to 1018, when it was built as a church for Benedictine monks. Because of its position high on the hill, it was easy to defend over the years as its protectors could see the enemy coming from any direction. In fact, during the siege of Florence in 1530, Michelangelo even helped to protect this beautiful church from enemy fire by tying mattresses around the walls.
A
djacent to the church is the Cimitero Monumentale delle Porte Sante (the Monumental Cemetery of the Holy Gates). This cemetery is actually quite new, by Florence standards; it was built in the late 1800s on the site of a 16th-century fortress. Many famous Italians are buried here, including Carlo Lorenzini, the author of Pinocchio. But most of those buried are just average Florentines. I was especially touched by the fact that many of the graves were adorned with photos, paintings, or bronze sculptures of the people who had died. This is such a beautiful thing to do; looking at the photos made me want to know these people who have gone before me. The cemetery went on and on, covering the hillside, with the backdrop of Florence and the countryside stretching for miles.
Next, I entered the church itself. As you can see, the facade is gorgeously done in green and white marble. I love the juxtaposition of the old and new: clean, smooth marble set against rugged, ancient stone. And the inside of the church took my breath away. I’ve been to many, many churches over the past two weeks, but nothing prepared me for the beauty of this one. What makes it beautiful, to me, is it simplicity. The lights were off, the only light coming from small windows near the tops of the thick stone walls. This gave the church an almost cavelike feel. Frescoes lined the walls, gorgeous works of art in subdued tones. In fact, the fresco I liked the most was simply done in one earthy terracotta color, directly on the stone wall. I walked down steps into the crypt and walked up to the third level, the presbytery, admiring everything. There were just a few others who had discovered this gem, adding to the feeling of peace and solitude I was experiencing. I could have stayed here all day.
But it was time to go. I walked downhill in the opposite direction of the Piazzale Michelangelo, which took me down cobblestone sidewalks through beautiful neighborhoods filled with Tuscan mansions. Along the way I passed parklike areas with benches, low stone walls, hedges and gaslights, all with sweeping views of the valley. Except for a passing car or two, it was silent, save for birds singing and the sound of the breeze through the cypresses. This was the peacefulness I had been in search of, and I had found it.
And what peacefulness awaited me! I first climbed steep, grass-covered stone steps until I reached the Church of San Salvatore al Monte, which was completed in 1504. I loved the simplicity of the church facade; unfortunately, I was unable to go inside as the massive wooden doors were locked. I learned, though, that Michelangelo once referred to this church as “la bella villanella” (the comely peasant girl). I can see why.I then continued to climb. Along the way I walked by the Parco della Rimembranza (the Park of Remembrance), which was quite moving. Tall, stately cypress trees were lined up neatly, reaching toward the heavens; and under each were small markers honoring the men and women who gave their lives during the World War I and World War II as Red Cross volunteers. What a fitting tribute.
I finally reached the top, where the Church of San Miniato al Monte graces the summit, with sweeping views of Florence and the countryside. This is an extremely important church in Florentine history. It is one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in the city; it is also one of the oldest churches in the city, dating back to 1018, when it was built as a church for Benedictine monks. Because of its position high on the hill, it was easy to defend over the years as its protectors could see the enemy coming from any direction. In fact, during the siege of Florence in 1530, Michelangelo even helped to protect this beautiful church from enemy fire by tying mattresses around the walls.A
djacent to the church is the Cimitero Monumentale delle Porte Sante (the Monumental Cemetery of the Holy Gates). This cemetery is actually quite new, by Florence standards; it was built in the late 1800s on the site of a 16th-century fortress. Many famous Italians are buried here, including Carlo Lorenzini, the author of Pinocchio. But most of those buried are just average Florentines. I was especially touched by the fact that many of the graves were adorned with photos, paintings, or bronze sculptures of the people who had died. This is such a beautiful thing to do; looking at the photos made me want to know these people who have gone before me. The cemetery went on and on, covering the hillside, with the backdrop of Florence and the countryside stretching for miles.
Next, I entered the church itself. As you can see, the facade is gorgeously done in green and white marble. I love the juxtaposition of the old and new: clean, smooth marble set against rugged, ancient stone. And the inside of the church took my breath away. I’ve been to many, many churches over the past two weeks, but nothing prepared me for the beauty of this one. What makes it beautiful, to me, is it simplicity. The lights were off, the only light coming from small windows near the tops of the thick stone walls. This gave the church an almost cavelike feel. Frescoes lined the walls, gorgeous works of art in subdued tones. In fact, the fresco I liked the most was simply done in one earthy terracotta color, directly on the stone wall. I walked down steps into the crypt and walked up to the third level, the presbytery, admiring everything. There were just a few others who had discovered this gem, adding to the feeling of peace and solitude I was experiencing. I could have stayed here all day.
But it was time to go. I walked downhill in the opposite direction of the Piazzale Michelangelo, which took me down cobblestone sidewalks through beautiful neighborhoods filled with Tuscan mansions. Along the way I passed parklike areas with benches, low stone walls, hedges and gaslights, all with sweeping views of the valley. Except for a passing car or two, it was silent, save for birds singing and the sound of the breeze through the cypresses. This was the peacefulness I had been in search of, and I had found it.
2 comments:
a quiet park in the middle of the city: those are the wonderful things one just stumbles onto, Carolyn--as you did! sounds sorta like an Alamo Square: you turn the corner and, much to your surprise, there it is.
James
You're so right, James! Another beautiful park to stumble upon in San Francisco is Ina Coolbrith, at the top of Russian Hill. Have you ever been there?
Carolyn
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