One of the best things about being in a place for an extended period of time is that I don’t feel compelled to go out and see and do everything immediately. No itineraries, no schedules, no lists – just time to wander around, without a plan or a map, to see what turns up around the next corner.
I did
just that after leaving the Caffé S. Ambrogia on Tuesday, in an attempt to see if I could find my way home on my own. Along the way I stumbled upon a supermarket. Now, this was no Safeway, mind you, but it was fairly large with excellent meat and seafood departments, a deli, and a bakery. I loaded up on a few things I needed for my apartment and headed back in the general direction. Of course, now that I was carrying a heavy load, I got lost. But eventually, with the help of a police officer who was kind enough to give me directions, I made it home, lugging those bags up all 54 steps. I was exhausted! There was nothing left to do, then, but sit on the terrace!
I carried my textbooks and an iced tea up to the terrace and sat at my table to prepare for next week’s classes. All around me were the monuments of Florence: the Campanile, proudly standing high above the Palazza Vecchio (which means “Old Palace”) Since it was built in 1322, the Palazza Vecchio has served as Florence’s town hall. For centuries the bell in the campanile has been used to call citizens to meetings and to warn them of things such as enemy attacks and floods. Also visible from my terrace is the tower of the Bargello, which was built in 1255 (these years astound!). Over the centuries it has served as town hall, the home of the chief of police, and a prison where hangings took place; and today it houses a collection of Renaissance sculpture, including works by Michelangelo, Donatello, and Cellini. A third tower, that of the Badia Florentina, is also visible from my terrace. This church, founded in 978, is one of the oldest churches in Florence. Its hexagonal campanile is even mentioned in Dante’s The Divine Comedy. And even the Duomo, the most famous and recognizable structure in Florence, peeks out from behind a building across the way. I stayed until the sun disappeared, making it too cold to sit outside any longer.
By then it was time for dinner. On Monday evening, my first night in Florence, I got turned around while coming home from dinner and ended up going west instead of east. But sometimes getting lost can turn into the most splendid thing. I ended up on the Via della Terme (Street of the Baths), which dates back to the days when the Romans occupied Florence. It was mostly dark and deserted, save for a welcoming, warmly lit trattoria. The restaurant looked so inviting that I made a note of the address and went back the next night. How fortunate I am that on only my second night in Florence I discovered a trattoria I’ll return to again and again.
Antica Trattoria Toscana Nella serves up cucina tipica Toscana (typical Tuscan cuisine) and has great prices, including very inexpensive Tuscan wine. (I should also note that the walk there took me along the Arno and by the Ponte Vecchio; to see it at night is amazing!) Anyway, I had grilled chicken and white Tuscan beans with olive oil. Everything was marvelous! When it came time for dessert, I asked the owner what his best dessert was. He answered, “The panna cotta (which literally means “cooked cream”), but I just made it and it’s too fresh to serve yet. But if you come back tomorrow night, you can have the best panna cotta in Florence.” I may just do this! The owner is charming and told me that he dreams of opening up the basement of his restaurant, which dates back to Roman days, as a literary and jazz café, where he can play his oboe and host poetry readings. I hope he’s able to make this dream come true one day. By the time I left, the restaurant was packed, mostly with students looking for a good meal at a good price. They couldn’t have found a better place!
I did
just that after leaving the Caffé S. Ambrogia on Tuesday, in an attempt to see if I could find my way home on my own. Along the way I stumbled upon a supermarket. Now, this was no Safeway, mind you, but it was fairly large with excellent meat and seafood departments, a deli, and a bakery. I loaded up on a few things I needed for my apartment and headed back in the general direction. Of course, now that I was carrying a heavy load, I got lost. But eventually, with the help of a police officer who was kind enough to give me directions, I made it home, lugging those bags up all 54 steps. I was exhausted! There was nothing left to do, then, but sit on the terrace!I carried my textbooks and an iced tea up to the terrace and sat at my table to prepare for next week’s classes. All around me were the monuments of Florence: the Campanile, proudly standing high above the Palazza Vecchio (which means “Old Palace”) Since it was built in 1322, the Palazza Vecchio has served as Florence’s town hall. For centuries the bell in the campanile has been used to call citizens to meetings and to warn them of things such as enemy attacks and floods. Also visible from my terrace is the tower of the Bargello, which was built in 1255 (these years astound!). Over the centuries it has served as town hall, the home of the chief of police, and a prison where hangings took place; and today it houses a collection of Renaissance sculpture, including works by Michelangelo, Donatello, and Cellini. A third tower, that of the Badia Florentina, is also visible from my terrace. This church, founded in 978, is one of the oldest churches in Florence. Its hexagonal campanile is even mentioned in Dante’s The Divine Comedy. And even the Duomo, the most famous and recognizable structure in Florence, peeks out from behind a building across the way. I stayed until the sun disappeared, making it too cold to sit outside any longer.
By then it was time for dinner. On Monday evening, my first night in Florence, I got turned around while coming home from dinner and ended up going west instead of east. But sometimes getting lost can turn into the most splendid thing. I ended up on the Via della Terme (Street of the Baths), which dates back to the days when the Romans occupied Florence. It was mostly dark and deserted, save for a welcoming, warmly lit trattoria. The restaurant looked so inviting that I made a note of the address and went back the next night. How fortunate I am that on only my second night in Florence I discovered a trattoria I’ll return to again and again.
Antica Trattoria Toscana Nella serves up cucina tipica Toscana (typical Tuscan cuisine) and has great prices, including very inexpensive Tuscan wine. (I should also note that the walk there took me along the Arno and by the Ponte Vecchio; to see it at night is amazing!) Anyway, I had grilled chicken and white Tuscan beans with olive oil. Everything was marvelous! When it came time for dessert, I asked the owner what his best dessert was. He answered, “The panna cotta (which literally means “cooked cream”), but I just made it and it’s too fresh to serve yet. But if you come back tomorrow night, you can have the best panna cotta in Florence.” I may just do this! The owner is charming and told me that he dreams of opening up the basement of his restaurant, which dates back to Roman days, as a literary and jazz café, where he can play his oboe and host poetry readings. I hope he’s able to make this dream come true one day. By the time I left, the restaurant was packed, mostly with students looking for a good meal at a good price. They couldn’t have found a better place!
2 comments:
You're making me hungry! I wish I was there eating and drinking my way through Florence with you!
Annette,
I wish you were here too! Remember eating and drinking our way through Paris? We're pretty darn good at it!
Love, Carolyn
Post a Comment