Today was devoted to Michelangelo. After breakfast at my favorite bar, Caffé le Logge, I walked over to Casa Buonarroti, a house in which Michelangelo lived at one time (his last name was Buonarroti). What a fabulous place! Although most of the work inside the house is not actually by Michelangelo, the collection has been assembled in his honor by his descendants. However, two pieces by Michelangelo make a visit here a must: Madonna della Scala (Madonna of the Stairs) and Battle of the Centaurs. These are both marble reliefs and two of his earliest pieces. Prior to coming to Florence, I read Irving Stone’s The Agony and the Ecstasy, in which he vividly described Michelangelo’s work on these two pieces. To see them in person was indescribable.
After seeing Michelangelo’s work, it seemed only fitting to see where he has been laid to rest, Santa Croce. This gothic-style church was built in 1294. In addition to Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Dante, Rossini, and other famous Italians are buried here. The inside of the church is stunning. In addition to the main church, there is a chapel, the Cappella de’Pazzi, which was designed by Brunelleschi, who also designed the Duomo. Even though this chapel is much less grand in scale, I found it even more striking.
After seeing both of these sites today, I must say that whenever you are in a building in Florence, don’t forget to look up. Often the ceilings are the most dramatic and beautiful part of a room. It was also interesting to learn how often beautiful frescoes are covered up over the years, only to be discovered decades or centuries later. For example, an entire room in the Casa Buonarroti had been whitewashed during the 1800s. It was only when the room was restored in 1964 that glorious frescoes, dating back to the 17th century, were discovered. My apartment, which is in an ancient building, also has whitewashed walls. Could there be a beautiful fresco lurking beneath?
On another note, yesterday’s International Herald Tribune carried a story about the film noir festival that is taking place at the Castro Theatre in San Francisco right now. Noir City was started in 1993 by film noir expert Eddie Muller. It’s great to see that it’s now gained international interest. Way to go, Eddie!
Well, I’m going to head back to my apartment soon. Tonight I plan to cook my first meal in my apartment, spaghetti with vongole (clam) sauce. Let's hope I can figure out how to work my gas stove without any incidents!
After seeing Michelangelo’s work, it seemed only fitting to see where he has been laid to rest, Santa Croce. This gothic-style church was built in 1294. In addition to Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Dante, Rossini, and other famous Italians are buried here. The inside of the church is stunning. In addition to the main church, there is a chapel, the Cappella de’Pazzi, which was designed by Brunelleschi, who also designed the Duomo. Even though this chapel is much less grand in scale, I found it even more striking.
After seeing both of these sites today, I must say that whenever you are in a building in Florence, don’t forget to look up. Often the ceilings are the most dramatic and beautiful part of a room. It was also interesting to learn how often beautiful frescoes are covered up over the years, only to be discovered decades or centuries later. For example, an entire room in the Casa Buonarroti had been whitewashed during the 1800s. It was only when the room was restored in 1964 that glorious frescoes, dating back to the 17th century, were discovered. My apartment, which is in an ancient building, also has whitewashed walls. Could there be a beautiful fresco lurking beneath?
On another note, yesterday’s International Herald Tribune carried a story about the film noir festival that is taking place at the Castro Theatre in San Francisco right now. Noir City was started in 1993 by film noir expert Eddie Muller. It’s great to see that it’s now gained international interest. Way to go, Eddie!
Well, I’m going to head back to my apartment soon. Tonight I plan to cook my first meal in my apartment, spaghetti with vongole (clam) sauce. Let's hope I can figure out how to work my gas stove without any incidents!
5 comments:
Carolyn
My friend,Lisa, and I have been enjoying your blog. Of course, we've been living vicariously through your wonderful adventures. Lisa and her husband will joining us in San Fran in October. Thanks for all of the hotel recommendations.
Your Florence apartment looks glorious. What scenery you have photographed! It sounds like you're becoming a "local" quickly!
Love,
Lisa
Carolyn,
I am following your footsteps closely. Brings up memories!! Enjoy this special experience.
How cold is it? Two years ago it was very cold and at times we had snowflakes!
Ciao bella,
Maria
Carolyn,
One more thing. If you need your basics, you should try La Standa. It sounds like an international market because foreign students in Florence, ( those who have taken economics/finance) are looking for good but reasonably priced groceries. Good delikatesen too. It is about 3-4 blocks from your apartment. Let me know if you need more info onthat,
A rooftop balcony!!! I lived on the other side of the piazza, via Lambertesca, deadending on the Ufizi.
keep reporting,
Maria
Buon giorno, Maria! Funny you should mention Standa. That's the supermarket I discovered on my second day! I love it, and the prices are great. There are always long lines at check-out, primarily students. I'll be sure to share this info with them.
As for the weather, the past few days have been really mild. I've even been able to sit on my rooftop terrace without a coat. But today feels much colder. My husband even heard that it might snow. I hope so!
Carolyn
Lisa, please tell Lisa that I can't wait to see her and Gary in October. Where do you live in San Francisco?
Carolyn
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