Dozing in the Duomo, and More!

My parents’ first (and only) Sunday in Florence arrived, and with it came chilling Siberian winds. These winds are common in March, and the Florentines welcome them because they clear the air, making the city feel fresh and cool. Well, cold is more like it!

We began the day by attending the 10:30 mass in the Duomo. We didn’t know until we got there, but this was the high mass, which has its pros and cons. On the pro side is the fact that the mass is the only one conducted in the main cathedral, right under Brunelleschi’s dome; the con side is that it’s really, really long. So long, in fact, that my dad began to doze off. But who could blame him, really? Not only was the mass long, but it was in Italian.

Long mass + foreign language = prime sleeping opportunity

After mass we walked through the oldest part of Florence, down streets that have been there since the Roman days, to Piazza della Signoria. Here we had a wonderful lunch at Caffè Rivoire. You may recall from an earlier posting that this caffè has stood on the piazza since 1852. I knew the first time I went there that my parents would absolutely love it, and they did. We sat right by the window, with a stunning view of Palazzo Vecchio. And afterwards we admired the cases, filled with all kinds of delectable treats, and the windows, filled with colorful Easter displays.

After having our fill, we walked over to the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, the Medici family’s first home in Florence, where they took up residence in 1462. (The home was later purchased by the Riccardi family in 1670, hence its name.) This palazzo was the first to use its unique stonework: heavy stones at the bottom, becoming smoother on upper floors. Once you see this design here, you’ll begin to notice it all over Florence.


We toured the courtyard, with its arched porticos, and the upstairs, where four rooms are open to the public. We then went back downstairs to the garden, which we especially loved. Although the Siberian winds were still maintaining a chill in the air, the garden was blocked enough that the sun felt marvelously warm. Orange trees and pots fills with flowers made the day seem almost spring like.

But, of course, we had saved the best for last: the Benozzo Gozzoli Chapel. This tiny chapel houses perhaps one of the most joyous and best-loved frescoes in all of Florence: The Journey of the Magi. Painted in 1459 by Benozzo Gozzoli, this colorful fresco chronicles the visit of the Emperor John VIII Paleologus to Florence in 1439, but it does so in the spirit of the journey of the magi to Bethlehem when Jesus was born. In place of the Three Wise Men are the Medici men, a touch that was and still is considered quite blasphemous and self-serving by some. Regardless, the fresco is absolutely delightful, filled with likenesses of real people of the time, exotic animals, and colorful scenery. You could literally stand there for hours studying it, each look turning up something new. I can’t wait for my students to see this work of art on their “In the Footsteps of the Medici” walking tour, which will take place after spring break.


Upon leaving the Medici-Riccardi Palace, my dad returned to the hotel for his power nap, and my mom and I decided to do some shopping. Instead, we ended up on the roof of an upscale department store on the Piazza della Repubblica, the Rinascente. On the roof is a wonderful café with views of the Duomo and the Piazza della Repubblica, which is where my school is located. In fact, you can see my school in one of these photos. We are located on the third floor, right between the Pensione Pendini and Edison (a bookstore) signs. Not a bad location!

After our aperitivo on the roof, we went back to pick up my dad. And just how much did they love Caffè Rivoire? Well, we went back there for dinner the very same day!