Tuscan Trails

On Tuesday, April 3, the DVC crew (with partners in tow) hit the Tuscan Trails with Italian wine expert Todd Bolton. Todd teaches the wine appreciation classes for our students, so we knew that we were in very good hands. And, in fact, it was necessary to be in his hands. You see, wine tasting in Tuscany, and in all of Italy, is much different from wine tasting in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. You can’t just drive from winery to winery, sampling as you please. In Tuscany it’s all about connections. You must be with a guide or “someone who knows someone” in order to be allowed access a winery. That’s why today was so special.

We met Todd at 10:15 at the foot of Ponte Grazie, where we boarded a van to begin our excursion. After buckling up (Italian law!), we headed toward the famous Chianti region of Tuscany. Along the way, as rivers, rolling terraced hillsides, and Tuscan villas rolled by, Todd gave us a mini lesson on Italian wines. We first learned about the four wine classifications authorized in Italy, in order from lowest to highest quality:

1. Vino di Tavola: basic table wine, no grape variety or harvest date can be indicated on the label

2. IGT (Indication of Geographic Typical): basically a “glorified table wine” category, grapes must be grown in a specific region that is specified on the wine label.ù

3. DOC (Denomination of Origin Control): grapes must come from a specific zone within a region and the wine must be produced in a specific way; there are 30 DOC zones in Tuscany alone

4. DOCG (Denomination of Origin Control Guaranteed): grapes are grown in zones that are more important historically than the DOC regions; there are 6 DOCG regions in Tuscany, with Chianti being one of them

We also learned that Italy produces one fourth of the world’s wine, and that wine is one of the country’s most important exports. No surprise there!

After a short time, we reached our first destination: Fattoria Selvapiana. This winery has been run by the same family for seven generations. Like the Medici, this family, the Giuntinis, began as a noble banking family in Florence, at some point branching out into wine. They are famous for their Chianti Rufina. They also produce olive oil and honey.

Todd first took us out into the fields, where he described the art of growing both grapes and olives. It was wonderful just being out in the sunshine with the Tuscan countryside as a backdrop to our lecture.

We then entered the winery itself for further education about harvesting and preparation. We learned about various barrels, about the difference between producing whites and reds, and about grappa. Todd actually referred to grappa as “brandy on steroids with claws,” a wonderful description for which I promised to give him full credit! (In fact, he should really trademark this!)

At one point Todd took us into a really interesting room that contains bottles of wine that had been aging for several decades, and they had the dust and mold to prove it!

We were also taken into a damp room in which grapes were being dried that would eventually be made into the region’s famous dessert wine, Vin Santo.

And lastly, before tasting, we were shown where olive oil is stored as it ages, in large beautiful terra cotta jugs, which sufficiently keep the light out.

Finally it was time to sample the wines. We tried four different wines: Rosato Toscana IGT, Chianti Rufina, Bucerchiale Chianti Rufina Riserva, and Fornace IGT (a Super Tuscan). They were all wonderful, and we ended up purchasing quite a few bottles. In fact, Laurie and Kathleen gave me a bottle of the Riserva as a thank you for setting up the day. Thanks so much, you two! I will definitely enjoy it!

After our tour and tasting, it was time for lunch. Todd took us to a place called Castello del Trebbiano Agriturismo, an idyllic little farmhouse restaurant seemingly in the middle of nowhere. We feasted on various antipasti and pasta, served of course with Chianti. We were then brought a decadent dessert and coffee, I guess to prime us for further wine tasting. It was a wonderful chance to relax and talk. The guys even found a very inviting outdoor couch to sink into!

After lunch Todd took us to a nearby winery called Fattoria Castello del Trebbio, also producers of wine and olive oil. Picture-taking opportunities were everywhere here!

Before taking us to the tasting room, though, Todd first took us to the castello (castle), which was built by the Pazzi family in 1184 and is now owned by the family that runs the winery. The Pazzi family were noble Florentine bankers starting in the 14th century, and they just happened to be archrivals of the Medici, also bankers. They will go down in history for being the planners of the now-called “Pazzi Conspiracy,” a plan to assassinate Lorenzo and Giuliano de’Medici in 1476, on Easter Sunday during High Mass in the Florence Duomo, no less. (I guess they weren’t too worried about leaving witnesses!) Interestingly, the family name derives from the word Pazzo, which means “madman.” Yes, you’d have to be pretty mad to come up with a plan like this!

Anyway, they were actually halfway successful, killing Giuliano in the process; but Lorenzo fled to safety. When the Florentines learned of the attempt to kill their de facto rulers, they were furious. The Pazzis were captured and were stripped of all of their belongings, which automatically became the property of the Medicis, including this very palace in which we now stood. Amazing!

After Todd entertained us with stories of the Medicis and the Pazzis, we headed into the tasting room for more wonderful Chianti. I guess Tom worked up quite a thirst from listening to all of those stories and just couldn’t wait for a glass!

It was now time to head back, and we arrived in Florence around 4:30, just as it started to rain. We had to say goodbye to Laurie and Kathleen here as they were going to rest up for their trip to Rome the next day.

But Charlie and Tom were just getting started. They came back to our place around 7:00, and we all went out to dinner at a place on the other side of the Arno that they had discovered early in their time here. It was fantastic! And at the end of our excellent meal, our server brought out three different kinds of grappa, on the house. We sipped mint-flavored grappa, orange-flavored grappa, and chili pepper-flavored grappa. They were all strong, but that last one was a killer! It’s a wonder that Charlie and Tom even made it up the next morning to catch their train to Venice!

And the last thing we did that night? Rubbed the nose of Florence’s famous boar, of course! Charlie and Tom have every intention of returning to Florence one day!