Art and Villas

Sunday in Florence is a day for fare passeggiata (literally “to do a walk or stroll”). This is the day that Florentines and visitors alike take to the streets en masse, and we decided to join them. What a perfect way to begin the month of April!

We first strolled by the Palazzo Strozzi, where an exhibit called “Cézanne a Firenze” was being held, and decided to enter. This wonderful exhibit brings together the collection of Egisto Paolo Fabbri (1866-1933) and Charles Loeser (1864-1928), both avid art collectors who once lived in Florence. The collection, which is now scattered all over the world, was last together in 1910 when Florence hosted the first Italian exhibition of Impressionism. Fabbri and Loeser were most drawn to Cézanne of all of the Impressionists, owning 47 of his paintings.

In addition to paintings by Cézanne, this exhibit included works by Van Gogh, Pissarro, Matisse, Sargent, and many others. It was also interesting to see Palazzo Strozzi itself. This massive palace, three stories high, was commissioned by the Medicis’ archrival Filippo Strozzi, another wealthy Florentine banker. Unfortunately, he died in 1491, two years before the first foundation stone was ever laid, but construction went on anyway. The palace was eventually completed in 1536 and has recently been completely restored. Today it serves as a major exhibition venue and houses an important library, the Gabineto Vieusseux, named after a Swiss scholar.

We also learned that Florence is really swept up in Cézanne fever. In conjunction with this exhibit, there are related events over all over Florence, including an exhibit at the Museo Nazionale Alinari della Fotografia (the Alinari National Photography Museum) of photos that were taken in Florence during the time of the 1910 Impressionist exhibition. Cinema Odeon, the movie theatre around the corner from the school, is also showing a film every Wednesday and Friday at 3 p.m. for free entitled Epoque Cézanne: The Artists and Their Mileiu at the Time of Impressionism. I look forward to seeing both of these.

After seeing the exhibit, which was excellent but much too crowded, we continued our stroll through Florence. Eventually we strolled across the Arno to head to Toni’s villa, where we had been invited to have dinner. The last, and only, time I had been there, it had been raining, so I was looking forward to seeing it in the sunshine. And Chip had never seen it, so I knew he was in for a treat. (By the way, Toni's villa is on the left. The smaller building on the right is where the owner/landlord lives.)

Toni took us for a stroll along the old Roman road that’s on her property, passing small vineyards, a hedge maze, and flowering trees along the way. When we reached the top of the hill, we were greeted with one of the most beautiful views we’ve ever seen of Florence. Yes, this is the view from Toni’s property. Does it get any better than this?

We spent some time up there and then returned to the villa for a wonderful dinner. Unfortunately, Toni’s father Coley (Judge Fannin) was sick and unable to join us. But we enjoyed dining with Toni’s brother, his wife, and their two kids, and of course with Dennis and Molly. Once again we were entertained with Dennis’s torture museum escapades. Maybe we’ll have to go to one of these ourselves someday!