Hanging Out in Heidelberg

The answer to our Seefer name-change question would have to wait, though, as our walking tour was about to begin. We left the prison and walked quickly to the square in which it was to start. We saw a large group of people by a statue and figured we were in the right place. Because we were running a few minutes late, I walked quickly ahead to announce our arrival.

As I approached the group, someone called out, “Are you here for the English tour?” When I replied “Yes,” the entire group started laughing. Wondering what I had done that was so funny, I looked back at Chip, Jake, and Doug with a questioning look. I realize there’s some anti-American sentiment abroad, but this was ridiculous! An explanation came quickly. It turns out that this entire group was there for the German tour, save for one woman. She had been told that there must be at least four people for a tour to run. As the four of us approached the group, they were all trying to guess whether we were American, and I guess most of them guessed right. (The Cal and Nike t-shirts the guys were wearing probably provided a good clue!) Anyway, the other woman was thrilled we were there, and the walking tour began!

Valerie served as our wonderful guide—warm, witty, and knowledgeable, everything you hope for in a guide. She gave us a brief history of Heidelberg and an overview of its architecture, and then we set off to, you guessed it, the Student Prison.

Although we had already been, we were happy to return. And we, of course, pointed out our family name to Valerie, again and again and again… Valerie also pointed out a very interesting inclusion on the wall, that of O. Stepp. He was the very last student prisoner, who served out his sentence right before the prison shut down for good. What a claim to fame!

(On a side note, here are some photos that were taken earlier in the morning, prior to our visit to the Student Prison. This is the Ancient Lecture Hall of the University of Heidelberg, which was completely renovated in 1886 to mark the 500th anniversary of the university. We couldn’t resist taking a turn at the podium to lecture in this marvelous Italian-renaissance hall, where so many great minds have lectured throughout the years. Mark Twain even lectured here, but he couldn’t compare to Doug, who recited a racy limerick taught to him by his father!)


During the tour, Valerie took us to two churches, one Catholic and one Protestant, and both stunningly beautiful, albeit extremely different in style. The Catholic church, the Church of the Jesuits, has Baroque architecture and is completely white inside, making for a bright, inviting place. The Protestant church, the Church of the Holy Spirit, is Gothic in architecture, with a clock tower and beautiful tall stained-glass windows. Valerie told us about a town tradition that was taking place that very night: there was a special candlelight Easter mass that would begin in the Protestant church. Halfway through the congregation would hold a candlelight procession through the town on its way to the Catholic church, where the remainder of the mass would be held. (I made immediate plans to take part, and it turned out to be a glorious and very beautiful evening!)


Valerie also took us by a chocolate shop that has been making a unique confection since 1863: the Heidelberger Studentenkufs (Heidelberg Student’s Kiss). The chocolate shop is housed in the Café Knösel, which has always been a popular meeting place for students since it first opened. Keep in mind that the students were all male in those days. One of the things that made this café so popular is that the young girls who were attending finishing school in Heidelberg also loved the chocolates that the owner, Fridolin Knösel, created. The university students would, therefore, crowd the café, hoping to exchange glances with these young girls, making their governesses, who were always close by, extremely upset. Fridolin, a romantic at heart, decided to do something about it, and he created the Sudentenkufs. The idea was that a student of either gender could purchase the kiss and give it to another student as a silent token of his or her affection. Today the Student Kiss is still made by hand, using the original recipe. (By the way, I gave one to Chip later that day!)


Our next and final stop was the Old Bridge. Valerie first told us the story of a strange monkey-like bronze statue that sits at the end of the bridge. His face is basically hollowed out, and legend has it that if you put your head inside, you’ll be granted good luck. (Does every European town have something like this?) Anyway, we all had to give it a shot!

Jake, however, was more intrigued with the back of the statue, in all its anatomical correctness! Welcome to Heidelberg!



Valerie continued to regale us with more entertaining stories about Heidelberg, including one that Jake wanted to try out later at the castle (I’ll explain in a bit). We thoroughly enjoyed this walking tour and learned so much about this special town.


But now it was time for lunch. We walked just a few steps to our hotel to pick up Paul and headed over to the Kornmarkt, a central plaza where a small farmers’ market was being held, and had lunch at the Marktstube (vowels seem to be used sparingly in the German language!). Jake and I gave Chip our orders, and we ran back to the Student Prison, where there was a shop selling University of Heidelberg items. We bought gifts for everyone! It was so fun to return to our table with University of Heidelberg t-shirts for Chip and Doug and a sweatshirt for Paul. What better souvenirs of this special trip! And as for lunch, it was amazing! I had the bratwurst and sauerkraut. Now, I don’t really know whether this was a really good bratwurst, or whether I’ve simply become so sick of Italian food, but I relished every bite!




Sufficiently fueled, we headed for the railway station, where a funicular would whisk us up to the Heidelberg Castle. The castle, complete with moat, dates back to the 13th century and sits majestically on a hill, keeping careful watch over all of Heidelberg. You can spot this magnificent building anywhere you are in town, and now we were about to see it up close. Firs to all, the views from up here are amazing! This is where Paul used to come for dances when he was in college, and the grounds are still used today for festivities such as banquets, balls, theatre performances, and concerts.

Jake and I toured the Deutsches Apothekenmuseum (German Apothecary Museum), which provided a fascinating look at the field of pharmacology.

When then met Chip, Doug, and Paul, up on the terrace overlooking Heidelberg, where Jake was about to test out his manhood. You see, if you look carefully on the terrace, you’ll see the imprint of a shoe. Legend has it that a man was secretly paying a visit to his lover, who lived in the castle. When her husband returned home unexpectedly, he jumped out of the window, landing so hard that his shoe sunk into the hard cement. It is said that if your own shoe fits perfectly into this imprint, that you are (or will be) a good lover. Well, as you can see from this stop-action photographic series, Jake’s foot fit perfectly! Does he look pleased, or what? (By the way, Jake’s was the only one that fit. Yikes!)

Next we headed down to the castle’s wine cellar, home to giant wine casks and to Perkeo. Who is Perkeo, you ask? Perkeo was a dwarf who had quite a taste for wine. In the early 1700s he served as court jester for Prince Elector Karl Philipp. One of his most important duties was to guard the prince’s giant wine vat. In the course of his duties, he was often offered glasses of wine to enjoy; in fact, he drank gallons this way each day. Each time he did, he would respond in Italian “Perché no?,” which means “Why not?” This, of course, earned him is play-on-words nickname (either that or the Germans had no idea what he was saying!). So what ended this poor dwarf’s life? Rumor has it that one day he accidentally drank a glass of water and dropped dead. Poor Perkeo!

Paul was tired from our castle explorations, so Chip and Doug escorted him back to the hotel, but Jake and are were only just beginning! We got back on the funicular, which then took us to the very top of Königstuhl (“King’s Chair”) The funicular that took us this time was really retro, and we hoped it would make it! But it was strong and we made it safely, and were welcomed with even more spectacular views of Heidelberg. Jake was so inspired that he pulled out his pad of post-it notes, which had become his makeshift journal.

After enjoying the views, and a big German pretzel, we boarded the funicular for our return back to town. When we got back, Jake headed back to the hotel, and set off in search of stamps. Along the way, I just happened to find Chip and Doug enjoying a beer in the sunshine. Naturally I joined them!

Before long dinnertime had arrived, and this was the meal I was looking forward to the most. Paul was taking us to his old haunt the Zum Roten Ochsen (the Red Ox Inn) for dinner. This cozy restaurant has been owned and operated by the Spengel family since 1703. And for years it’s been favored by university students, including Paul. Yes, Paul spent many a night at the old Red Ox during his college years beginning in 1949. He entertained us with stories of late-night drinking and singing college songs around the piano.

Today the restaurant retains this college-like atmosphere. Its walls are lined with pictures, paintings, and lithographs dating back many centuries. And wouldn’t you know it—Paul found a picture of himself on the wall, dated 1949. What a treasure!

A piano player was still pounding away, although the trend today seems to be jazz standards rather than raucous college tunes, which I don’t think Paul enjoyed nearly as well!

I will always remember this special night, enjoying food and beverage at the Red Ox with Paul. And, yes, Jake recorded it all on his post-it notes! Prost! (Cheers!)