Hanging With the Locals (well, sort of)

My first Friday evening in Florence arrived, and I decided to go out to dinner in my neighborhood. Given that it was around 6:30 p.m., this wasn’t an easy thing to do. Most restaurants don’t open until at least 7:00, with many not opening until 7:30 or 8:00. They eat late in Florence! Luckily for me, though, I stumbled upon a little osteria just around the corner from my apartment. This tiny casual restaurant, Osteria I Buongustai (which roughly translates to “inn of good enjoyment or taste), is run by two women, Laura and Lucia, and the name is fitting. The food here, specialità toscani (Tuscan specialities), is simply and wonderfully flavorful. I had a crepe filled with proscuitto, gorgonzola, and walnuts, accompanied by a glass of Chianti.

When I arrived, only one table was occupied, by a couple and their young three-year-old daughter Paola. Soon, they engaged me in conversation. Marco and Monica Parente, a delightful couple, had just arrived in town, after driving in from their home in Napoli (Naples). Marco is Italian, and his wife is German. This was her first time in Florence, and they were here to celebrate her birthday. But after a long drive with a small child, they were exhausted and famished. They, too, were thrilled to find this osteria that was open at an earlier hour. Over the course of our conversation, I learned that Marco and Monica met in Sicily, where Monica was studying Italian. They now live in Naples, where Marco is a member of the Italian navy. I asked what language they use at home with each other; because Marco doesn’t speak German, they have spoken Italian their entire relationship (although they both also speak excellent English). Monica also tries to speak German at home so that Paola will learn both languages, but she says that over time German is becoming more difficult for her. She now even thinks and dreams in Italian. I thought about this for a long time after – what would it be like to lose your native language?