Churches and Chocolate

My main goal this past Saturday was train travel! Rather than buy train tickets online, I decided to walk over to the Santa Maria Novella station to buy them in person. I had quite a few to buy and decided I wanted the security of having hard copies in my hands. So off I went!

It’s difficult, though, in Florence to go anywhere without getting distracted by the many things you’ll pass along the way. Saturday was no exception. My first detour was a divine one--to the Officino Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (perfumery and pharmacy), a wonderful hidden gem located at Via della Scala 16. This perfumery/pharmacy, one of the oldest in the world, was founded by Dominican monks in the early 1200s, shortly after they arrived in Florence. At that time the monks began to grow a variety of herbs in their gardens from which they concocted medicines, balms, and pomades, in the beginning used exclusively by the monks. But word soon spread (well, actually it took until the early 1600s, but that was fairly fast in those day!). In 1612 the monks began selling their products to the general public; and in the 1700s the monks went global and began selling their products in other countries, including Russia, the Indies, and China. For reasons unknown, the Italian government confiscated the monks’ assets in 1866, and the company was taken over by the state. Fortunately, though, the nephew of the last monk who directed the perfumery/pharmacy was appointed head of the new state-run business. To this day the Officino Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella sells products that are made using the same formulas the monks devised in the 1200s, with most of the ingredients grown locally.

When I first entered the perfumery, I was a little confused. That’s because it feels as if you’re entering a church, not a shop. Perhaps that makes sense given its religious background. The shop is absolutely gorgeous, albeit a bit intimidating. Gorgeous antique cases line the walls, proudly displaying the wide variety of products for sale: eau de colognes, extracts, pure essences, facial care, body care, oils, soaps, lotions, sun care, hair care, oral hygiene, hand and foot care, and room fragrances, with intriguing scents such as amber, honeysuckle, Città di Kyoto, Cuba, freesia, hay, broom, peau d’Espagne, Sicilia, tuberose, and verbena. There are also things like bust-firming creams, toning creams, and anti-cellulite creams. Something tells me that these latter items are later additions to the product line! Several women, all impeccably dressed, were lined up behind the counter, almost militaristically, ready to serve their customers. It was clear that they take their job extremely seriously, as they should given the prices of these products. I felt as if I were in a fine jewelry store; everything was handled with such grace and care. I can’t wait to return to this shop, with gift list in hand!

After leaving the perfumery, I walked down the street a couple of blocks to the Museo Nazionale Alinari della Fotografia (Alinari National Museum of Photography), Florence’s photography museum. This museum is housed in what was once the Ospedale di San Paolo dei Convalescenti (Hospital of Saint Paul for Convalescents), a fifteenth-century structure that was deteriorating and has now been given new life. The Alinari brothers were deeply involved in photography, early in its existence, in the nineteenth century. Their work in photography led to the first Italian Exposition of Photography taking place in Florence. Before their death, the Alinari brothers created a foundation to ensure that access to photography was always available to the European people. The museum houses over 900,000 vintage prints from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. There are also exhibits of vintage cameras from around the world as well as exhibits that teach visitors about the history of photography. Interestingly, the current special exhibit, through March 25, is an American photographer, Walker Evans, who did his work during the Great Depression. I have made arrangements to take one of my classes to this museum on March 12. The timing is perfect as my dad, a 30-year veteran of Eastman Kodak and an extremely skilled amateur photographer, will be in town at the time. He will definitely be joining us!

Leaving the photography museum, I walked across Piazza Santa Maria Novella to the Church of Santa Maria Novella. The façade of the church is currently being renovated and is completely hidden behind scaffolding, but the church itself is open to the public. This church was built by Dominican monks in the early 1200s (perhaps the same ones who were also concocting those lotions and oils?). The church is massive, with many chapels opening up off the main church. The art within the church is also impressive, with important works by Giotto, Brunelleschi, Ghirlandaio, Lippi, and Masaccio. And Brunelleschi’s archrival Lorenzo Ghiberti is buried here. I most enjoyed the beautiful frescoes, some of which are currently being restored.

Well, I had done enough detouring. It was time to get to the train station for my tickets for travel in March. First I bought a ticket to Interlaken, where I will be going the first weekend in March. I’ve dreamed of going to Switzerland almost my entire life, so this will truly be the trip of a lifetime. But so will the trip for which I bought other tickets. You see, Chip will arrive in Florence our first day of spring break, March 17. The following Monday we’ll take a train to Venice, where we’ll stay for two nights; then we’ll go to Verona for a night, followed by three nights on Lake Como in Bellagio. By that time we’ll not have seen each other for seven weeks, which is sure to make this amazing trip even more magical.

Train tickets in hand, it was time for some refreshment. And what could be more heavenly than chocolate! And there can be no better place for cioccolata con panna (hot chocolate with whipped cream) than the Caffè Rivoire on the Piazza della Signoria. This elegant café has been situated opposite Palazzo Vecchio since 1852. In its early days, it was a place where academics met for heated discussions about politics and world events. Today it still serves an upscale local clientele as well as tourists, and some of the debonair waiters look as if they’ve been there fore decades. And my hot chocolate was indeed divine and the perfect remedy for a cold afternoon.