Celebrating the First Day of Class!

The rains continued throughout the day on Wednesday, and into the evening, as you can see in this photo of Lungarno d. Archbusieri, the road that runs between the Ufizzi and the Ponte Vecchio.

Of course, Wednesday was the start of classes. When I returned to my apartment at the end of the day, I found a message on my cell phone from a student, inviting me to go out to dinner with a group of eight of them, all DVC students who had taken my preparation class. What a wonderful way to celebrate the start of the semester! Of course, I said yes.

We had reservations at 8 p.m. at the Golden View Open Bar, one of the restaurants on the students’ meal voucher system. Given the name, I had no idea what to expect, and what a surprise I was in store for. The restaurant sits on the south end of the Ponte Vecchio, with stunning views of the Arno. The interior was very chic, and the service was impeccable. The quality of the restaurants on the meal voucher plan is simply amazing!

I’ve always known that Italians linger over their meals, making each meal a celebration, and last night we did as the Italians do—our dinner lasted for over three hours! Midway through out meal, a jazz trio set up and started playing a series of jazz standards, which made the evening even more memorable.

We all left the restaurant around 11:30 and crossed back over the Ponte Vecchio, toward our apartments. As we strolled, we came upon the Mercato Nuovo (New Market), which really isn’t so new; it dates back to the 16th century. During the day the market becomes alive with vendors selling a variety of products, but at night it’s empty, except for one thing—the Fontana del Porcellina (the Piglet’s Fountain). This really isn’t a piglet at all! Instead, it’s an early 17-century life-size bronze statue of a wild boar. Legend has it that if you rub the boar’s snout, that you’ll return to Florence one day. It’s obvious that people believe in this legend as the boar’s snout has been rubbed smooth and shiny over the centuries. Well, we’ve all fallen in love with Florence and have every desire to return, so we had to give it a try (some even kissed that ugly boar!). Let’s hope it works and that we all are able to return to this magical city again and again.

Grazie, studenti, per una sera fantastica! (Thanks, students, for a fantastic evening!)

School Has Begun!

Classes began today! I arrived at the school around 8 a.m. to find these seven eager students already waiting and ready to begin their classes. And, yes, here are the two first professors to arrive (this is Lanny from Cosumnes River College), ready to fill those eager young minds!

Here is my class schedule this semester:

Business Communications (BUS 250)
Mondays/Wednesdays, 8:30-10:20 a.m.

International Business (BUS 209)
Mondays/Wednesdays, 10:30 a.m.-12:20 p.m.

If you're looking for more, you can stop. Yes, that's it! You might be wondering how I got this great schedule, and in Florence no less. Back when I was first selected to teach in the program, there was some question about whether there would even be demand for business courses; after all, they had never been offered as part of the curriculum in the program's 20-year history. I was offered the chance to go to Florence, with the stipulation that I only teach half a load. How could I possibly say no?! And by teaching overload during the summer and fall, I was able to bank enough that I'm still earning my regular full-time salary. A pretty good gig, if you ask me!

Anyway, the fears were quickly allayed once registration began. I have 20 students in Business Communications, which is a wonderful size to work with for a class like this. And I officially have the largest (perhaps ever) group of students in International Business -- 44!! As you can see above, it took me two shots to capture the whole group. I'd say that this proves it -- business courses really do belong in the Study Abroad curriculum!

I am looking forward to an exciting semester with the wonderful groups of students in these two classes. Let the learning begin!

A Rainy Day in Florence

This morning I woke up to the gentle sound of rain on my tile rooftop and looked out my window to see an entirely different city. Is it possible that Florence is even more beautiful in the rain? The cobblestones shimmer, reflecting the warm glow of streetlights. I've always loved the rain and never more so than this morning. Just look at how my street came alive in this early morning rain.

Langston Hughes once wrote:

"Let the rain kiss you. Let the rain beat upon your head with silver liquid drops. Let the rain sing you a lullaby."

That's just how I felt as I walked to class early this morning. Not a bad way to begin the day!

Cultural Calendar

Yesterday during orientation, the students were given the first half of their Cultural Calendar for the semester. Take a look at all of the fantastic things that AIFS has lined up for them. And the good news, for me, is that faculty are welcome to participate too. I can’t wait! (Don’t worry – I’ll also check to see if husbands, moms, dads, and friends are welcome too!) Also keep in mind that this is just the first half; soon students will receive the calendar for the second half, which I’ll share with you as soon as I receive it. By the way, here are the wonderful AIFS folks who make this all possible: Jed, Sophie, and Kirsty. Thanks, all!

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Thursday, February 8: Welcome Reception
--A chance to relax with fellow students, staff, and faculty to toast the start of the program. (Free)

Friday, February 9: A Stroll Through Florence
--A relaxing stroll with the AIFS staff over the Arno River, through the pretty neighborhood of San Niccolo, and up to Piazza Michelangelo—a beautiful piazza set high above the city offering the most spectacular views over Florence. (Free)

Monday, February 12: Cooking Class A (repeated Thursday, February 13, Monday, February 19, and Wednesday, February 21)
--Italian cooking is world famous. While you are here, come and learn a few dishes of your own to cook and amaze friends back home. Our first menus is “Crostini Campagnoli,” “Penne alla Carrettiera,” “Roast Beef con Piselli,” followed by that great Italian dessert, “Tiramisu.” (25 euros)

Tuesday, February 13: Language Exchange/Pizza Night
--A chance to meet real Italians! We will have a pizza evening with our friends from the American Institute next door—loads of Italians dying to test out their English on you as long as you test out your Italian! (8 Euros)

Friday, February 16: Insight Into Carnevale
--Everything you need to know before you go! Find out about the history of Carnival and more specifically what you should expect to see at this year’s carnival. (Free)

Sunday, February 18: Day Trip to Carnevale, Viareggio
--One of the more famous and elaborate Carnivals is right on your doorstep—you’ve arrived just in time to join in the celebrations! (15 euro)

Monday, February 19: Wine Tasting—Chianti Wine (repeated Tuesday, February 20, and Wednesday, February 21)
--In this first wine tasting session, our expert Todd will teach you all about the famous local red wine, including the processes, the regions, and of course some tasting! (5 euro)

Tuesday February 20: Carnival Classic Music Concert at Teatro Verdi
--“Voci di primavera,” at one of Florence’s most important theatres, a one off special concert to celebrate carnival with music from Strauss, Lanner, and Offenbach, and more. (7 euro)

Wednesday, February 21: Insights Into Calcio
--Everything you ever wanted to know about Italian soccer by our resident expert Fabrizio and Ged. Get clued up before this weekend’s game. (Free)

Friday, February 23: Day Trip to Siena and San Gimignano
--Beautiful Siena, home of the Palio, and San Gimignano with its towers. (5 euros)

Sunday, February 25: Soccer Match—Florentina v. Empoli
--Come and see the Italians’ favorite pastime—soccer—or “calico” as they say! The local team is in “Seria A” (the premier league), so you should see some serious soccer. Even if you’re not a soccer fan, come along as nothing beats the atmosphere of an Italian soccer match—we guarantee you’ve not seen anything like it! (12 euros)

Monday, February 26: Film Night
--A first chance to see some classic Italian film or Italian-related film. The title will be announced nearer the time! (Free)

Monday, February 26: Cooking Class B (repeated Wednesday, February 29, Monday, March 5, and Wednesday, March 7)
--This is your second change to learn how to cook some typical Italian food! Pappa al pomodoro, spaghetti al Ragu, Arista con patate al forno, and Biscotti di Prato. (25 euros)

Tuesday, February 27: Aperitivo With Italians
--A second chance to meet some local Italians who are studying English. (10 euros)

Friday, March 2-Sunday, March 4: A Weekend in Rome!
--A chance to see the Italian capital—one of the most beautiful cities in the world! The weekend will include two nights accommodations, round-trip transport, entrances, and tours of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and the Vatican Museums. (275 euros)

Monday, March 5: Wine Tasting—White Wines (repeated Tuesday, March 6, and Wednesday, March 7)
--New lecture by Todd on different wines. You have covered the local red wine; not let’s look at some white wines! (5 euros)

Monday, March 12: Oil Tasting (repeated Wednesday, March 14)
--This time Todd will tell you everything you need to know, from production to tasting, about olive oil—the most important ingredient in the Mediterranean diet and one of Italy’s most exported products! (5 euros)

The Students Are Here!

Gli studenti sono arrivati! (The students have arrived!)

The student flights arrived on Sunday, February 4. Students were taken to Hotel Michelangelo, where they spent their first night. The faculty were specifically told to stay as far away from the hotel as possible. I guess that trying to check in 175 students can create some chaos!

The faculty arrived at the hotel yesterday morning to attend a two-hour student orientation. It was so wonderful to see them all. They may have been jet lagged, but they all looked happy and extremely excited. Before the orientation students were given a packet, a virtual treasure trove really, filled with a wealth of information and goodies, such as a Uffizi card (which gets the into all state-run museums in Florence for free without, and this is the best part, having to wait in line), a pass for four hours of e-mail use at a local Internet Train, and their meal vouchers. Interestingly, I learned that my favorite restaurant in Florence so far, Antica Trattoria Nella, is one of the nine restaurants on the meal voucher plan. The students have really lucked out with this one!

After everyone was settled in the auditorium, the orientation began. Over the course of two hours, the highly knowledgeable and personable AIFS staff told students everything they need to know to start settling into their new home, including many practicalities and warnings. We want to make sure that everyone has a safe and healthy study abroad experience!

There was much to digest, but at the same time I know that students were probably thinking about one thing: "I can't wait to see what my apartment looks like!" But they showed great patience, and then the moment arrived. Students, in shifts, were told to retrieve their luggage and to meet out front, where taxis were waiting to take them to their new homes. How exciting for them! Some already knew their roommates, and others were about to meet theirs for the first time. This is the type of experience that will result in lifelong friendships. They have so much to look forward to in these next three months!

After settling into their apartments, students were then given customized walking tours of their neighborhood, including a stroll to the school so that they would know exactly how to get there. And their evening was free to do as they wished: explore the neighborhood, have a nice dinner, or just catch up on some sleep!

Today began early with a morning cultural workshop for the students, which will be followed by a faculty meeting, during which time the students will presumably go out and enjoy a nice lunch. This afternoon students will attend a workshop about traveling in Europe, which is something many students will be doing during their long three-weekends. And then the rest of the day is free. They'd better get a good night's sleep. After all, classes begin tomorrow!

Some Observations: A Baker's Dozen

I have now been in Florence for a week, and here are some of my observations and thoughts about everyday life in this magnificent city:

1. Florentines will go out of their way to offer assistance and to be kind. Case in point—on Saturday, as I was putting on my coat, a wool toggle coat, I noticed that one of the leather loops that holds the toggles had become detached. I decided to go to a leather shop, which are located in every block (Florence is known for its leather products), to see if the owner could refer someone who could repair my coat. When I asked the gentleman, he raised his finger, telling me to wait un minuto (one minute). He returned with a sewing kit, asked for my coat, and went immediately to work repairing it; and he did a beautiful job. When I asked how much I owed him, he almost scoffed at the question, saying in heavily accented English, “No charge. I am happy to help.”

2. Maybe I’m hanging out in the right neighborhoods, but it’s extremely rare to see a homeless person on the street. (Gavin Newsom, are you listening?) I have seen some gypsies, but they seem quite passive. The streets in my neighborhood are also spotless. A street cleaner comes by several times a day to sweep the streets, and trash is picked up multiple times a day (again, Gavin, are you listening?).

3. I still haven’t figured out who has the right of way on the impossibly narrow sidewalks in Florence.

4. One of the best things about Florence? No chains. I’ve walked everywhere, and I have yet to see a Starbucks, a McDonald’s, a Gap, or any of the other chains that are ubiquitous throughout the United States.

5. In lieu of chain stores in Florence are specialty stores, and I mean specialty. I have seen entire stores devoted to the following: fish, spices, wine, bread, chocolate, stationery, cheese, fruit and vegetables (two separate shops), cheese, newspapers, batteries (given my electrical challenges, I’ve been three times to the one in my neighborhood so far), and chewing gum, yes, chewing gum. This makes shopping an adventure!

6. I stop by the same café every morning, where I get a delicious pastry and the most wonderful cappuccino I’ve ever had for 2.10 Euro total. How will I ever be able to go back to Starbucks again?

7. Whenever you dine out and for any meal, you won’t get your check until you specifically ask for it. This is so refreshing after going to some restaurants in the U.S. where your check arrives before you’re halfway though your meal. In Italy they believe that meals should be relaxing, which is exactly how it should be.

8. Those in the know have said that you have to go to Napoli (Naples) to get a decent pizza. With enough searching, though, you can find one in Florence. I did just that during my first week, and just a block from my apartment. (Chip will be very happy about this!) The place is called Taverna Divina Commedia, an appropriate name given that it's around the corner from the Casa di Dante.

9. I’ve been told that it’s considered gauche to ask at a restaurant to take your leftover food home with you, but I’ve learned that it’s all in the way you ask. Last night the aforementioned pizza was much too large to finish on my own, yet I hated to see it go to waste. This is what I said to the owner, pointing to the leftover pizza: Posso prendere a casa? È molto buona ma troppo grande per me (Is it possible to take home? It is very good but too big for me). He responded with a big smile and a Certo! (Certainly!), whisked the pizza away, and placed it in a nice box, which he held for me until I paid my bill and was ready to leave. No problemo!

10. They have an obsession in Florence with American music from the ‘70s. You already know about the bad ‘70s music that was playing in the quaint trattoria across from my apartment. Last night, at the great pizza place I discovered, they were playing Barry White. I must admit, though, that this is American music from the ‘70s I can live with!

11. If you stick with something long enough, you’ll figure it out eventually, even my Candy Aquamatic 3, which I have now mastered!

12. It’s hard to be humble when your underwear and socks are hanging on a clothesline for the world to see.

13. When you’re walking down the street in the historical centre of Florence, carrying a bag that contains a four-pack of toilet paper and a roll of paper towel, which you’ve just purchased at the local Standa supermarket, it will suddenly hit you: “I’m definitely not a tourist!”

Domenica

In 1847, shortly after arriving in Florence, Elizabeth Barrett Browning wrote in a letter to a friend, “Florence is beautiful, as I have said before and must say again, most beautiful.”

And at no time is she more beautiful than on a domenica mattina (“Sunday morning”). The bells of Florence seem to ring more often, more loudly, and more joyously on Sunday, which isn’t surprising given the predominance of the Catholic faith. Everywhere, people are out for fare una passaggiata (literally “to do a walk”), and the sound of music fills the air. This is a day to celebrate life.

This is also the day that the students arrive. I can’t think of a better day to experience Florence for the first time.

Faculty Gathering

Most of the study abroad faculty have now made it safely to Florence (Janet and Rebecca will arrive tomorrow on the student flight), so we decided to get together for dinner. We met at 6:00 at the Neptune Fountain in Piazza della Signoria, just steps from my apartment. Bob and I both arrived alone, Lanny came with his wife Janet, and Toni arrived with her father Coley and her six-year-old daughter Molly (now known as “Molliana”) in tow. Kirsty (of AIFS) and her friend Angela also made a surprise appearance. We all went to a café around the corner for aperitivi (“aperitifs” or “before-dinner drinks”) and stuzzichino (“appetizers”). Evidently, it’s quite common for bars and cafés to provide large spreads of appetizers, which are provided for free, as long as you order a drink or two. I hear that students often make meals of these spreads! In fact, Toni and her family did just that as they arrived only yesterday and are still overcoming jet lag. They just weren’t up to a later dinner!

Toni and her family headed back to their villa, and the rest of the faculty headed out to dinner at the trattoria that I discovered my second night, Antica Trattoria Nella. Lorenzo, the owner, treated us well. We gorged on crostini toscani (toast with duck liver pate), several kinds of pasta, duck, Tuscan white beans, and spinach, all washed down with vino rosso. We ended our meal with Lorenzo’s famous panna cotta, biscotti, vin santo, and espresso. Do Italians really eat like this every night? I can’t imagine.

Our original goal was to plan the students’ “Amazing Race” over dinner, which is game we’ll use to help orient students to Florence. Well, we never even discussed it, but we did have some wonderful conversation. Salute!

Crossing the Bridge

Yesterday, after my attempt to do laundry, I decided to cross over to what is known as Oltrarno (“across the Arno”). It was a spectacular day, with blue skies and warm temperatures, a perfect day for a stroll. I crossed over Ponte Santa Trinità, which takes you right into the Santa Spirito neighborhood. This is a more traditional Florentine neighborhood, with lots of shops, artisan workshops, and apartments, many that also had laundry hanging outside. Saturday must be laundry day! Looming over this neighborhood is the Santa Spirito church, which was designed by Brunelleschi. As you can see, other than the campanile and the dome, which you can see in the background, the church itself is quite pure and simple. In fact, it reminded me of something you might find in New Mexico, something Georgia O’Keeffe would have delighted in painting. Given the ornateness of everything else I’ve seen so far in Florence, this church appealed to me. Later I learned that Brunelleschi designed the church in 1435 and it was completed in the late 1400s, after his death. The front of the church is actually an unfinished façade that was added in the 1700s. Yes, unfinished. I rather hope it stays this way.

I continued my walk through the neighborhood, enjoying its peacefulness. This was where the poets Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Robert Browning lived beginning after their secret wedding in 1846, until Elizabeth’s death, in Robert’s arms, in 1861. Their home, Casa Guidi, is open to the public three days a week, and I look forward to visiting. I can see why they loved this neighborhood, and I imagine that not much has changed since their days here.

I walked back over the Ponte Vecchio (“Old Bridge”), one of the most famous sites in Florence. This pedestrian-only bridge, which is the only bridge in Florence to survive the WWII bombings, was built in 1345. Since it was built, the bridge has been home to workshops. In the early days, it was lined with butchers, tanners, and blacksmiths, but they were evicted in 1593, when Duke Ferdinando I decided he didn’t like the stench they created. The goldsmiths soon moved in, and they remain here until this day. I, personally, found the displays in the shops to be a little too ostentatious. Give me an antique book shop over a jewelry store any day!

Laundry Day!

Well, I finally had to do it – the laundry! I decided to start with a load of towels, just in case the results turned out to be disastrous. My washing machine is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. As you can see from the photo, it’s quite small; in fact, I learned that I could fit two or three towels, tops, in a load. I figured out where to put the soap, but after that, it was a mystery.

The front of the machine, an impressive-sounding Candy Aquamatic 3, has a table on it that has some type of code; I think the Da Vinci code would be easier to break than this thing! There are columns numbered 1 through 12, along with a mysterious Z that seems strangely out of place. The row are coded (P, C , A, B, C, and ILTC). The C I can figure out easily enough, but the rest, who knows? To the right is a round dial; and in the middle are three push-buttons labeled with a key symbol, a cup symbol, and the letter “E,” respectively. Are you as confused as I was so far?

I looked around for an instruction manual, but to no avail. So I loaded the towels, threw in some soap, and closed the door, or tried to close the door. After several times, and an eventual hearty slam, I managed to get it to stay shut. I pressed buttons, I turned the knob, but nothing happened. Eventually, though, I got it to spin, so violently that the door flew open. Good thing I had bypassed the wash cycle! Now what? I pushed and turned some more and, suddenly, water appeared, and then some suds. I was on the right track! The drum began to turn, rather slowly, and the towels flopped around a bit. I left it running like that for quite a while, hoping for the best. When I felt they had had enough, I turned the knob again until I found the spin cycle. Once the excess water had been removed, I opened the machine to take a look at my handiwork. Were they even clean? They smelled all right, so again I just hoped for the best.

Now it was time to dry them, the old-fashioned way. Dryers are rare in Italy; most buildings are not wired to handle them, and they are terribly expensive to run. So what do people do? They hang their laundry to dry in the fresh air, so this is exactly what I did, and I even have a photo to prove it!

I was still not satisfied, though, with the way this first attempt went. What do those numbers and symbols stand for? And how do I know which number I’ve chosen on the dial, which has no markings? Or did it? I grabbed a flashlight and inspected some more. Sure enough, though worn away through years of use, the knob contained numbers (and that mysterious “Z”), visible only with a flashlight. Well, at least I was getting somewhere.

By the way, I did a little Web research this morning, hoping to find the instructions for this contraption online, and found out that the Candy Aquamatic is now producing models up in the 1000s. That explains a lot!

Hanging With the Locals (well, sort of)

My first Friday evening in Florence arrived, and I decided to go out to dinner in my neighborhood. Given that it was around 6:30 p.m., this wasn’t an easy thing to do. Most restaurants don’t open until at least 7:00, with many not opening until 7:30 or 8:00. They eat late in Florence! Luckily for me, though, I stumbled upon a little osteria just around the corner from my apartment. This tiny casual restaurant, Osteria I Buongustai (which roughly translates to “inn of good enjoyment or taste), is run by two women, Laura and Lucia, and the name is fitting. The food here, specialità toscani (Tuscan specialities), is simply and wonderfully flavorful. I had a crepe filled with proscuitto, gorgonzola, and walnuts, accompanied by a glass of Chianti.

When I arrived, only one table was occupied, by a couple and their young three-year-old daughter Paola. Soon, they engaged me in conversation. Marco and Monica Parente, a delightful couple, had just arrived in town, after driving in from their home in Napoli (Naples). Marco is Italian, and his wife is German. This was her first time in Florence, and they were here to celebrate her birthday. But after a long drive with a small child, they were exhausted and famished. They, too, were thrilled to find this osteria that was open at an earlier hour. Over the course of our conversation, I learned that Marco and Monica met in Sicily, where Monica was studying Italian. They now live in Naples, where Marco is a member of the Italian navy. I asked what language they use at home with each other; because Marco doesn’t speak German, they have spoken Italian their entire relationship (although they both also speak excellent English). Monica also tries to speak German at home so that Paola will learn both languages, but she says that over time German is becoming more difficult for her. She now even thinks and dreams in Italian. I thought about this for a long time after – what would it be like to lose your native language?

Some Interior Shots

Chip has been asking for some interior shots of my apartment, and no wonder. After all, he'll be living here for about a month beginning March 17 (and, believe me, that day can't come soon enough!). So here they are.

We'll start with the living room with my working (yes, working!) fireplace. To the left of the fireplace is my office area, which I've already put to lots of good use. Next is the kitchen niche, which is too small to really photograph, so you'll just get a glimpse of it. By the way, everything worked perfectly last night, and my spaghetti with vongole sauce was delicious! I ate my meal last night at my dining table. The door behind the table leads out to a tiny balcony, which is also where I'll be hanging my clothes to dry (I haven't tackled that yet!).

The next photo is of the bathroom. Notice the bidet? I have since covered it with a flat basket, making a little table out of it as storage space in there is at a premium. Finally, here is my bedroom. As you can tell, a double bed just about fills it!

Don't you just love it, all 400 square feet of it? This is my home away from home for the next three and and half months. I just love it

I Climbed Brunelleschi's Dome!

Last night I was sitting on my rooftop terrace talking with Chip, when suddenly I saw a flash come from the top of the Duomo. I soon realized that it was from a camera and I could see people up there; until that moment I had no idea that you could actually climb to the top. My plans for Friday were sealed!

After breakfast I walked immediately over to the Duomo (which means“cathedral”; almost every town in Italy has a duomo, but Florence’s is certainly one of the most famous). The actual name for this cathedral is the Santa Maria del Fiore (Saint Mary of the Flower), and she is a beauty. The dome itself is the tallest structure in Florence, and the Baptistery portion of the cathedral is one of Florence’s oldest buildings, dating back to the 4th century. Santa Maria del Fiore is massive; in addition to the dome, the Campanile, which was designed by Giotto and completed in 1359, can be seen from all over Florence.

The interior of the cathedral is stunning; I was taken aback just by its sheer size. I actually found the floor of the cathedral the most interesting. Intricate, mazelike patterns have been laid out in marble, in a surprising array of colors. And, of course, looking up into Brunelleschi’s dome to see the fresco series depicting Il Giudizio Universale (The Last Judgment) left me speechless, and did so even more as I got even closer to it. More on that later.

After viewing the inside of the cathedral, it was time to do some climbing. I decided to tackle the Campanile (“bell tower”) first. A total of 414 steep stone steps later, I was at the top! And suddenly the city of Florence was laid out dizzyingly all around me, her red terracotta rooftops glowing in the sun. That’s one of the things I love about Florence: those red rooftops. If you look closely at the tiles, you’ll see that they’re all curved. I learned that the basic design for these rooftop tiles dates back centuries and is actually quite simple. A laborer would cut a square of clay and, while still wet, fold it over his thigh and then place it in the sun to dry. Nothing like making use of what you have!

Anyway, I digress. I spent a long time up their just taking in the views, trying to find my rooftop terrace out of so many below me. Then it was time to climb down. I first said “Ciao” to the man sitting in the glass booth at the very top. Oh, did I mention him? Yes, there’s a guard of sorts at the very top of the Campanile. And my husband thinks his commute is rough!

Once I reached the bottom, it was time to take on the Duomo. This structure is even higher, with 463 steps to climb, many even steeper than the ones in the Campanile. Portions of the climb involved narrow spiral steps that seemed to go on forever, but I keep pushing along. And it was worth every breath, to be able to say that I made it to the top. And one of the best things about this climb is that about halfway up, you’re taken right inside the cupola (“dome”) where you can even more clearly see the magnificent fresco series by Giorgio Vasari and Frederico Zuccari. Then, after being somehow energized by this incredible work inside the dome, it’s back into the stairwell for the most grueling part of the climb. When you reach the top, you enter an exterior walkway that surrounds the top of the dome, which you can see in one of the photos. The views from here are breathtaking (of course the climb did a pretty good job of taking my breath away too!). Brunelleschi’s dome is truly a remarkable architectural feat, and I will always remember my climb to the top.

And after climbing these two magnificent structures? Well, gelato, of course! I figured I had earned it!

Babel

I had my first language-related incident last night. Hey, it was bound to happen sooner or later.

I decided to try to find the Odeon, a cinema that shows American movies, in English, several times per week. It was easy to find, right around the corner from the school. I walked into the lobby and saw a huge poster propped up on a stand advertising Dreamgirls. The times were listed, including the third time down: 18:30. I glanced at my watch; it was 6:20. Perfect! I even had 10 minutes to spare. I walked up to the ticket counter and said to the woman behind glass, “Un biglietto per Dreamgirls, per favore.” She responded rapidly in Italian, and gestured in the direction of, I guessed, the screens. Although I had no idea what she said, I nodded dumbly and said “Sì.” She took my money, handed me my ticket and change, and sent me on my way.

A man behind a velvet rope took my ticket and tore it, handing me my stub (which luckily I kept, unlike George Costanza!). Next, I walked over to the concession counter and purchased a small popcorn and a Coca-Cola Light (there’s no such thing as “Diet” in Italy). I still had five minutes to spare. I opened the first door I came to, which led out into the street; boy, this theatre was confusing! Then I spotted a huge floor-to-ceiling velvet curtain. Could the screen be behind there? I parted it; indeed, this was a theatre, with a movie already in progress. I shut the curtain quickly, hearing a few hisses as I did, and returned to the concession stand to ask, “Dov’è Dreamgirls?” The man looked at me blankly. I tried again. Nothing. Eventually he looked at my stub and said, “Queen.” What? What did he mean by that? I looked at my stub for the first time; sure enough, I had a ticket for The Queen, which had started more than 20 minutes ago. He then said “No Dreamgirls.”

Puzzled, I walked back to the ticket counter and in rough Italian tried to ask the cashier what had happened. All she could say was “Only Queen.” I pointed to the poster for Dreamgirls, to which she responded “Only Queen.” This was going nowhere. I decided to try the man at the velvet rope. We got a little farther through my limited Italian and his limited English, as well as universal gestures and my pointing to “18:30” on the poster. It turns out that the large poster in the lobby for Dreamgirls was actually advertising that the film was showing at another theatre, in Italian no less. Apparently, to find out what was showing at this theatre, I was supposed to pick up a brochure at the ticket counter, which listed all the dates and times for the month. I then asked for a refund; he said, “No refund. I tore ticket,” accompanied by a gesture demonstrating his ticket-tearing skills. Now I really felt as if I were in a Seinfeld episode!

Naturally, I pondered this for some time after leaving the theatre. Maybe it was my fault; perhaps I should have translated the movie title into Italian when purchasing my ticket, but I somehow thought that the cashier at a movie theatre would recognize the movie title, regardless of the language. After all, I recognize Il Postino and Cinema Paradiso well enough without translation. And what would the translation be? There’s really no such word as “Dreamgirls,” at least you won’t find it in a dictionary, so perhaps I should have worked with the individual words. Maybe I should have said Sogno Ragazzi. But with “sogno” serving as an adjective, should I make it plural since “ragazzi” is plural (Sogni Ragazzi)? And in Italian, sometimes adjectives come after the nouns they describe. That would make it Ragazzi Sogno or Ragazzi Sogni. And shouldn’t I really be using the noun “donna”; after all, these are grown women we’re talking about. If so, would I say Sogna Donne, Sogni Donne, Donne Sogno, or Donne Sogni? My mind began to grow numb.

The good news, though, is that the velvet rope guy agreed to let me use my ticket stub to come back to see Dreamgirls next Thursday, when it really is playing at this theatre in English. At least I think that’s what he said.

Michelangelo's Day

Today was devoted to Michelangelo. After breakfast at my favorite bar, Caffé le Logge, I walked over to Casa Buonarroti, a house in which Michelangelo lived at one time (his last name was Buonarroti). What a fabulous place! Although most of the work inside the house is not actually by Michelangelo, the collection has been assembled in his honor by his descendants. However, two pieces by Michelangelo make a visit here a must: Madonna della Scala (Madonna of the Stairs) and Battle of the Centaurs. These are both marble reliefs and two of his earliest pieces. Prior to coming to Florence, I read Irving Stone’s The Agony and the Ecstasy, in which he vividly described Michelangelo’s work on these two pieces. To see them in person was indescribable.

After seeing Michelangelo’s work, it seemed only fitting to see where he has been laid to rest, Santa Croce. This gothic-style church was built in 1294. In addition to Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Dante, Rossini, and other famous Italians are buried here. The inside of the church is stunning. In addition to the main church, there is a chapel, the Cappella de’Pazzi, which was designed by Brunelleschi, who also designed the Duomo. Even though this chapel is much less grand in scale, I found it even more striking.

After seeing both of these sites today, I must say that whenever you are in a building in Florence, don’t forget to look up. Often the ceilings are the most dramatic and beautiful part of a room. It was also interesting to learn how often beautiful frescoes are covered up over the years, only to be discovered decades or centuries later. For example, an entire room in the Casa Buonarroti had been whitewashed during the 1800s. It was only when the room was restored in 1964 that glorious frescoes, dating back to the 17th century, were discovered. My apartment, which is in an ancient building, also has whitewashed walls. Could there be a beautiful fresco lurking beneath?

On another note, yesterday’s International Herald Tribune carried a story about the film noir festival that is taking place at the Castro Theatre in San Francisco right now. Noir City was started in 1993 by film noir expert Eddie Muller. It’s great to see that it’s now gained international interest. Way to go, Eddie!

Well, I’m going to head back to my apartment soon. Tonight I plan to cook my first meal in my apartment, spaghetti with vongole (clam) sauce. Let's hope I can figure out how to work my gas stove without any incidents!

Eating in Italy

One of the great pleasures of living in Florence is the food. One thing I’ve observed is that the Italians eat and drink with gusto, and no wonder. Their meats, their pastas, their vegetables, their desserts, and their wines are wonderfully delicious. But they almost literally inhale their food and gulp their wine. I’ll give an example in a minute.

But first I must begin by telling you about the place I had dinner last night. I decided to forego the “best panna cotta in Florence” and, instead, had dinner at a small five-table osteria, Vini e Vecchi Sapori, which is directly across Via dei Magazzini from my apartment. Chip and I had actually discovered this place while doing some online research. We learned that the owner was an old curmudgeon and it was impossible to get a table, but that the food was wonderful. I can say, based on my experience last night, that only the latter is true. I arrived right when the restaurant opened at 7:30 p.m. (yes, restaurants open much later for dinner than in the states). Because I was so early, I got a table, right by the window, immediately. It also might have helped that on my way out, I met one of my neighbors, Giulia, who lives two floors below me. She walked into the restaurant with me, where she clearly knows the owner and staff (which actually consisted of one guy) well. By the way, Giulia spent some time in San Francisco recently and loves it, just as I love her city of Florence.

Anyway, the owner, who is also the chef, didn’t say anything to me the entire time, perhaps because he doesn’t speak English, but he smiled in my direction a few times. I had pappardelle sulla coniglio (thick pasta noodles with a rabbit sauce). It was fantastic!

When I was about halfway through my pasta, an Italian couple arrived and sat at the table next to me. They began their meal with thick slices of some type of cured meat. In the meantime, I finished my pasta and ordered dolce (dessert), a decadent white cake with a thick chocolate layer on top. My cake arrived as soon as their primo course, a pasta dish, arrived. In seconds it was gone. Shortly after they were served their secondi, a meat dish. That too disappeared in a flash, well before I had finished my cake. I was stunned by the speed at which they ate. No relishing, no relaxing –just a mission to accomplish. But, still, they seemed to be enjoying their meal, actually immensely.

The sign of a good restaurant, to me, is one frequented by locals. And this osteria definitely was; I was the only foreigner in the room, and the only one who didn’t know the owner personally. That’s why I must admit that one thing surprised me about this restaurant: the music. During my entire meal, what played in the background but bad ‘70s music, most of it disco. They also threw in a few songs by bands like America, 10cc, and Al Stewart. Who even listened to that music in the ‘70s, much less now? (All right, I’ll admit that Chip and I had to dance to Al Stewart’s “Year of the Cat” during the ballroom dance segment of PE in the ninth grade, but that was against our will.)

Music aside, the meal was fabulous, and I’ll definitely be back. And it takes me all of one minute to get there!

On Being a Tourist

Yesterday I decided that it was time to finally act like a tourist. But first, I had to play local by returning to my now-favorite place for breakfast, the Caffé le Logge by the Mercato Nuovo. This time I walked in knowing exactly what to do: I selected my pasta (pastry), went to the cassiere (cashier) to order my cappuccino and pay, and waited for her to hand me my scontrino (receipt), which I took to the barista. He proceeded to make me one of the best cappuccinos I’ve had in my life, seriously. I remember Joanna, my Italian teacher at the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club, telling us about this procedure. It seemed complicated at the time, but I love the fact that it’s still followed. Perhaps not all bars do this, and that’s probably the reason I like this one so much. Oh yes, did I mention that I’ve been having breakfast in a bar each morning? Don’t worry – an Italian bar is very different from an American bar. Sure, you can get a drink or glass of wine here, but most people go to a bar to get pastries, sandwiches, and espresso drinks.

Again, after getting my cappuccino, I sat at a small table where I could observe the people around me, all who seemed to know one another. I noticed that as someone would leave, he or she would say ciao to the other customers. And yesterday, only my second day here, an elderly woman said ciao to me as she left. Maybe I’m starting to fit in after all!

After breakfast I decided to visit the Casa di Dante, which is just two blocks from my apartment. Some say Dante was born in this house, but others are unsure. Regardless, the displays are interesting, and it was fun to walk around a 13th-century building; however, it was much too modernized for me. I would have preferred if they had restored it to resemble the home as it was when Dante lived there.

After learning about Dante and his family, I walked along the Arno to the Museo di Storia della Scienza (the Museum of the History of Science), which is a sort of shrine to Galileo Galilei. What a fascinating place! As the Indigo Girls sing, “Galileo’s head was on the block; the crime was looking up the truth.” It’s hard to believe that a man of such genius was shunned by so many.

The museum takes up two floors of an historic building and consists of room after room, each dedicated to some area of science or type of scientific instrument: telescopes; barometers and thermometers; nautical instruments, microscopes; maps and globes; motion, weight, velocity, and acceleration; surgery, pharmacy, chemistry; and so on. Although I’m far from scientific, I’ve always been intrigued by instruments and maps. The items on display at this museum are practical, to be sure, but they are also amazingly beautiful. Some displays were a bit lurid, including one of Galileo’s fingers, which was cut off after his death, proudly displayed in a glass orb sitting on a marble base. It’s quite well-preserved actually! And in the surgery room were plaster models of the complete pregnancy and birth process, created I believe in the 18th century, when this process was still largely a mystery. I know that this was a major step in science, but the models were a bit creepy! Upon leaving the museum, I was delighted to discover a special collection on the ground floor of 18-century bicycles. These were truly works of art, graceful and beautiful but none too comfortable. Most were made completely of metal (including the seat!), and some incorporated wood, primarily for the wheels. It wasn’t until the late 18th century that someone thought to put leather on the seat, and even that looked mighty uncomfortable. In fact, these early bikes were often called “boneshakers.” One look at them and you can see why!

Next it was time for lunch; I went to a café call Moyo by Santa Croce, which offers free wireless access. I managed to check my e-mail and get one blog item posted before my computer battery went dead. Upon returning home, I decided to recharge my battery using the adapter I brought with me. This turned into an adventure! I plugged the computer in and got back to work on some documents. After a while I sensed a burning electrical smell, followed by a small explosion. And then all the power went out! I had no idea what to do. I tried calling my landlord, but someone answered his phone who couldn’t speak English, making me wonder if I even had the right number, Then I tried looking up electricians in the phone book, after frantically looking up the words for electrician and fuse (elettricista and fusibile). Thankfully, before I got through to one, Signor Sposato, my landlord, called back and walked me through exactly what to do. The good news is that this apartment has a safety device that switches things off if I overload a socket, which I must have done with the adapter. At least there was no blown fuse to fix! Now I know this is all for real – I couldn’t just call down to the front desk to get things taken care of!

All is well now, although I have no idea how I’m going to recharge my battery from now on. But as I sit typing this, a man is playing an accordion at the end of my street, sweet notes drifting up through my window. Somehow this makes everything all right.

On Being a Local

One of the best things about being in a place for an extended period of time is that I don’t feel compelled to go out and see and do everything immediately. No itineraries, no schedules, no lists – just time to wander around, without a plan or a map, to see what turns up around the next corner.

I did just that after leaving the Caffé S. Ambrogia on Tuesday, in an attempt to see if I could find my way home on my own. Along the way I stumbled upon a supermarket. Now, this was no Safeway, mind you, but it was fairly large with excellent meat and seafood departments, a deli, and a bakery. I loaded up on a few things I needed for my apartment and headed back in the general direction. Of course, now that I was carrying a heavy load, I got lost. But eventually, with the help of a police officer who was kind enough to give me directions, I made it home, lugging those bags up all 54 steps. I was exhausted! There was nothing left to do, then, but sit on the terrace!

I carried my textbooks and an iced tea up to the terrace and sat at my table to prepare for next week’s classes. All around me were the monuments of Florence: the Campanile, proudly standing high above the Palazza Vecchio (which means “Old Palace”) Since it was built in 1322, the Palazza Vecchio has served as Florence’s town hall. For centuries the bell in the campanile has been used to call citizens to meetings and to warn them of things such as enemy attacks and floods. Also visible from my terrace is the tower of the Bargello, which was built in 1255 (these years astound!). Over the centuries it has served as town hall, the home of the chief of police, and a prison where hangings took place; and today it houses a collection of Renaissance sculpture, including works by Michelangelo, Donatello, and Cellini. A third tower, that of the Badia Florentina, is also visible from my terrace. This church, founded in 978, is one of the oldest churches in Florence. Its hexagonal campanile is even mentioned in Dante’s The Divine Comedy. And even the Duomo, the most famous and recognizable structure in Florence, peeks out from behind a building across the way. I stayed until the sun disappeared, making it too cold to sit outside any longer.

By then it was time for dinner. On Monday evening, my first night in Florence, I got turned around while coming home from dinner and ended up going west instead of east. But sometimes getting lost can turn into the most splendid thing. I ended up on the Via della Terme (Street of the Baths), which dates back to the days when the Romans occupied Florence. It was mostly dark and deserted, save for a welcoming, warmly lit trattoria. The restaurant looked so inviting that I made a note of the address and went back the next night. How fortunate I am that on only my second night in Florence I discovered a trattoria I’ll return to again and again.

Antica Trattoria Toscana Nella serves up cucina tipica Toscana (typical Tuscan cuisine) and has great prices, including very inexpensive Tuscan wine. (I should also note that the walk there took me along the Arno and by the Ponte Vecchio; to see it at night is amazing!) Anyway, I had grilled chicken and white Tuscan beans with olive oil. Everything was marvelous! When it came time for dessert, I asked the owner what his best dessert was. He answered, “The panna cotta (which literally means “cooked cream”), but I just made it and it’s too fresh to serve yet. But if you come back tomorrow night, you can have the best panna cotta in Florence.” I may just do this! The owner is charming and told me that he dreams of opening up the basement of his restaurant, which dates back to Roman days, as a literary and jazz café, where he can play his oboe and host poetry readings. I hope he’s able to make this dream come true one day. By the time I left, the restaurant was packed, mostly with students looking for a good meal at a good price. They couldn’t have found a better place!

Things I've Learned

I haven’t even been in Florence three full days, but here are the Top 10 practical things I’ve learned so far:

1. Regardless of what the laws might way, pedestrians have no right of way; look carefully before you step into any street.

2. You’ll be charged 1.50 euros per person as a service charge in any sit-down restaurant. This covers things such as bread, whether you want bread or not.

3. When you order water in restaurant, “tap” is not an option. Your only options are “still” or “sparkling,” and you’ll pay for it either way.

4. People really do talk to one another across alleyways and courtyards. On Tuesday the people across the way, four students who attend a fashion college, called out to me to open my window, which resulted in a 20-minute conversation across a large courtyard.

5. The toilet tank is positioned on the wall up near the ceiling. When you flush the first time, you may be startled!

6. When you shop in a supermarket, you must weigh your own food before going to the checkstand. Not doing so may result in a mild scolding from the cashier and some dirty looks from those in line behind you. You must bag your own groceries at a supermarket, and you won’t even get a bag unless you ask for it.

7. If you go to an Internet café, or any café with wireless access, bring ID with you (passport or U.S. driver’s license). You can’t access the Web without showing your ID; this is for anti-terrorism purposes. But once you register, you can sit there all day if you want, even it you order just a coffee.

8. Italians love it if you at least try to speak their language. Give it a try!

9. Contrary to popular belief, you’ll see jeans and casual clothing all over Florence.

10. I packed WAY too much!