What I'll MIss

In no particular order...

1. Waking to church bells in the morning instead of an alarm clock. Granted, I can hear the bells from Saints Peter and Paul Church on Washington Square in North Beach from our place in San Francisco, but they don’t start ringing until 9 a.m. In Florence the bells all over the city start ringing at 7 a.m., urging people to rise and beckoning them to a nearby church for worship.

2. My charming little apartment and the amazing views from my very own rooftop terrace. And the location just couldn’t be beat—on the cobblestoned street of Via dei Magazzini, right off the Piazza della Signoria in the historic heart of Florence, a street that is gorgeous both day and night.



3. My 90 cent perfect cappuccino every morning, served in a tiny china cup with a small silver demitasse spoon, often with the froth on top whirled into a design of a heart or an apple. I’ve been back now for exactly seven weeks, and I still haven’t found a coffee that can even come close.

4. Walking everywhere. Americans really are entirely too dependent on their cars and SUVs. It’s so refreshing and invigorating to get up each morning and walk to wherever you’re going—work, a caffé, the train station, a restaurant. And if you’re going farther afield, you simply hop on a train to reach your destination. Jane, Lanny’s wife, said that they also miss what they call “walking with a purpose.” That’s just a perfect way to describe it. By the way, I’ve tried to maintain my walking habits as much as possible since I’ve been home; I’ve been going grocery shopping and running other errands on foot and riding my bike longer distances. It’s possible if you really try.

5. Cobblestone streets. Oh, I just love the cobblestone streets and sidewalks of Florence, especially the way they shimmer when it's raining. They take you back to an earlier time. And the fact that the historic center of downtown is closed to all but official vehicles makes those streets even more special. People still walk those streets today as they’ve done for thousands of years. Every day I imagined whose footsteps I was walking in. And, as an added bonus, those cobblestone streets look even more enchanting in the rain, shimmering under the golden glow of the street lamps.

6. Gelato. I know, we have gelato shops in the U.S., and gelato is really just ice cream, right? Well, it might be the Italian version of ice cream, but it’s oh so different. So what makes gelato different from regular ice cream? For one thing, gelato actually has much less fat than regular premium ice cream, which is surprising given how rich it tastes. Interestingly, that higher fat content in regular ice cream actually masks the flavors, another reason gelato is so much more flavorful. Gelato is also frozen less deeply than ice cream, again making it more flavorful. Now you might be skeptical. After all, the texture of gelato is much creamier than regular ice cream. That’s because less air is used when making gelato. All of these reasons combined result in the rich, creamy delight that is Italian gelato. And to make it even more special, gelato is always exquisitely displayed in gelato shops, as if it is a work of art. Actually, I guess it is!

7. Train travel. Oh, how I love riding the train, whether it’s Italia Rail, Eurail, or a local train. There’s something so wildly magical and romantic about hopping a train, with your destination some exotic Italian or European city. And en route you can watch the countryside go by, making the trip itself as exciting as the destination.

8. Not having a television. I haven’t watched TV since January. Well, Chip and I did turn on the TV in our hotel in Rome for about five minutes. Karl Rove was rapping. ‘Nuff said!


9. Street vendors. I actually can’t believe I’m saying this. I mean, I wouldn’t dream of buying any of










their knock-off handbags, cheap luggage, plastic camera tripods, or low-quality prints and posters, but there’s something oddly endearing about these vendors. They have an entrepreneurial spirit that you can’t help but admire. Just watch what happens when it starts raining—suddenly the streets are filled with vendors selling umbrellas. And I realize that what they’re doing is illegal, but at least they’re doing something. And there’s no better entertainment than to happen to be in the area when the police come around. You can’t believe how quickly they scoop their goods up in large sheets and then haul butt through the streets. Our U.S. Olympic team should be recruiting these guys!

10. Being able to walk in somewhere anytime you want, on a whim, to see a Michelangelo, a Botticelli, a Donatello, a Fra Angelico, a Uccello, a Lippi, or an Artemisia Gentileschi. As if that weren’t enough, we were all given a Uffizi Card, which got us into most of Florence’s museums for free.

11. My school. What can be better than teaching in a high-tech classroom with all the necessary tools, especially when that classroom is located in a 19th-century building? Now, place that building right in the center of Florence on the Piazza della Repubblica, with a large window overlooking the piazza, complete with outdoor caffés and a working carousel, and you’ve got perfection.

12. Playing the Medici treasure hunt game. Looking for what, you might ask. The Medici Coat of Arms, of course. Not only did the Medici run Florence from the 13th through the 17th century, but they had to prove their power every chance they could. One way they did this was by placing the famous Medici shield everywhere they could—in/on churches and public buildings, on street corners, in courtyards, in parks, and just about everywhere else. It’s really quite fun to walk around Florence on the hunt for the infamous shield, which is easily recognizable. Just look for the shield covered with balls. What these balls represent is still a question for some. Do they represent coins, since the Medici were famous bankers? Do they represent pills, since the Medici name comes from the Italian word for “doctor”? Do they represent oranges, long believed to hold healing and mystical powers? After all, the Medici also filled their grounds with orange trees. Whatever these balls represent, there’s no doubt that they’re plastered all over Florence, and have been for centuries. In fact, one person during Cosimo il Vecchio’s time was quoted as saying, “He has emblazoned even the monks’ privies with his balls.”

13. Hanging my laundry out to dry. I really grew to love this—the feel and fresh smell of clothes that have dried in the open air. I would love to continue this here, but I don’t think my Homeowners’ Association would ever allow it.

14. Using an ancient, heavy skeleton key to open my front door. Isn’t it beautiful?

15. Clean streets. I’ve mentioned this before, but Gavin Newsom could learn a lesson or two from the city leaders of Florence. These street sweepers come by several times each day, rain or shine, making the streets spotless.

16. Shopping at small corner shops. Yes, I went to Standa, the local supermarket, a few times, but what I did much more was purchase items from the small local shops. Yes, this takes more time because you have to visit numerous shops just to put a meal together, but it makes shopping so much more interesting and special. The good news, too, is that I can continue this process every time I stay at our place on Russian Hill. There’s not a single supermarket anywhere nearby!










17. The folks in my neighborhood and beyond. Because I frequented the local shops, caffés, and restaurants, I got to know the people in my neighborhood well. I also tend to be loyal, so I went back to the same places again and again. And over those three-and-a-half months, I grew to feel that I was part of the neighborhood. Ever since my first morning in Florence, for example, I had my morning coffee at the Bar le Logge on the Mercato Nuovo. After just a short time, the professionals behind the bar knew exactly what I wanted without my even asking for it. And Graziela, the kind woman behind the cash register, began to treat me like a daughter. If I was away for a while, her face would light up when I returned, and she would reach out and clasp my hands. I will miss her smile and her kindness so much. I will also miss Niccolo, the wonderfully professional and friendly manager of my favorite wine bar, Conquinarius. I’ll miss the wonderful tour guides we had for our excursions and museum visits. I wish I could remember all of their names, but I will always remember Angela, tour guide extraordinaire. Everyone loved her, especially the endearing habit she has of snorting when she laughs. The thought still puts a smile on my face. I will miss Todd, the owner of Tuscan Trails and wine aficionado. I will miss the old curmudgeon and his son who ran the small trattoria across the street from my apartment. I will miss Vanna and her family, who run the charming Casa Cheli in the Tuscan countryside. I will miss Chris and his darling dog Monty, who run (and guard) the Hotel Rugenpark in Interlaken, Switzerland. I’ll miss the personable tour guides I had during my travels throughout Switzerland and Austria. I will miss my Italian family, who so generously invited me to take part in their birthday celebration one special Sunday afternoon. I will miss Mario, the charming proprietor of the Ditta Umberto Dei optician and photography shop. I will miss Gina Poncini and Kim, who made my two trips to Milan with my students so delightful. And, most of all, I will miss Beppe, my driver and my friend. His humor, wit, and warmth perfectly exemplify the Italian spirit.

18. My colleagues and friends. First of all, I’ll miss the AIFS staff. Kirsty, Jed, Norma, Sofie, and Fabrizio couldn’t have done more to make our time in Italy run smoothly. I would give anything to have a staff like them available back in the States; their professionalism, organization skills, and good humor are all top-notch. And I will miss terribly my colleagues and their families: Toni, Molly, and Coley; Rebecca, Leia, and Kira; Lanny and Jane; Janet; and Bob. Over the three-and-a-half months we were in Florence, we became like a family. I loved our regular “faculty meetings,” which were really nothing more than an excuse to get together to eat good food and drink good wine. I truly couldn’t dream of better people to share this experience with.

19. The students. After all, this is the reason we were all in Florence. Thanks to all of you for making this the most memorable and rewarding teaching experience in my 20-year career. I wish I could picture all of you here, but there’s just not the space. Instead, I’ve selected a few of my favorite photos. But do know that I miss every one of you.

20. Sharing Florence with my family and friends. Having a steady stream of visitors made my time in Florence even more special than it already was because this gave me an opportunity to share my “home away from home” with the people who mean the most to me. My first visitors were my mom and dad. They haven’t been on a plane since 9/11, but somehow my being in Florence gave them incentive. And they did it! I also had some DVC colleagues who chose to spend their spring break in Florence: Charlie and his partner Tom, Laurie, and Kathleen. John’s parents Richie and John visited, as did Ben’s grandmother Pauline. And my last visitor was my lifelong friend Laurie and her husband Brad. And, of course, my husband somehow managed to get a month off from his law firm to spend in Florence, giving us lots of time to explore Italy together. I still can’t believe all we did together. In addition to Florence, we went to Venice, Verona, Lake Como, Siena, Rome, and the Tuscan wine country. And then we hopped on a plane to Paris, picked up our son Jake, and took a train to Germany, where we met up with his dad and brother so that the five of us could return to the Seefer roots. Chip and I took advantage of every second we had together in Italy and Germany, and we truly have memories that will last a lifetime. For this I am grateful.